Sevastopol, Crimea

Whether you’ve a month or one day to explore this historic city and its surrounds, you’ll sail away clucking, thinking you’ve missed so much. And, you will have. A return visit is a must when you’ve more time, much more time.

Sevastopol has long enjoyed glowing praise. John Foster Fraser wrote in his 1899 piece Round the World on a Wheel, “Whether Paradise is formed from the plans of the south coast of the Crimea, or vice versa, I don’t know, but they must be from the same design.”

Sevastopol’s monuments and museums greet you now, then await your return. But you’ll soon realize it’s not only ancient, wearing the long face of time but a fast-paced young city, as well, faced toward the future.

Chapters From Days Past 

Reaching back into the folds of time, this area on the Crimean Peninsula was called Laestrygonian, as reported in Homer’s “Odyssey”. He wrote about that spot known as Balaklava, an important and stunning section of today’s Sevastopol. And local scholars report that in the 5th Century BC a city known as Chersonese spread across these shores. But historians point to June 14, 1783 as the date the modern city was founded by Russia’s Rear Admiral Makenzie as a naval base, chosen for its large, quiet bays. 

Christianity flourished here. Why? Because Prince Vladimir was the first of Russia’s many powerful leaders to adopt the Christian religion. Sevastopol is therefore revered as the cradle of Russian Christianity. The number of churches scattered about fills in the architectural details. 

Recent Intrigue and Drama 

Due to its strategic location on the Black Sea, Russian authorities kept the clamp severely down on Sevastopol as well as Balaklava. Not even Russian citizens could visit without a special permit, for secrecy was a crucial Cold War weapon. It was a “closed city.” And debate raged far too long as to its ownership. This territorial dispute was ultimately settled in 1993 between the Russian Federation and Ukraine with a friendship treaty signed. Even so, discussions still flare occasionally between the parties. 

Both agree, however, on its status as a “Hero City.” During the Crimean War (1854-1855) Sevastopol suffered a siege at the hands of the Turks, French, Sardinians, and British. Horrific fighting raged for just shy of one year before the Russian army retreated though not before scuttling their entire fleet, effectively blocking the harbor’s entrance keeping their ships out of enemy hands. The famous Russian artist Franz Alekseyevich Roubaud painted a massive panoramic mural depicting the soldiers’ defense of the city. This important piece was presented to the public in 1905, damaged in 1942, restored eight years later. Military history buffs shouldn’t miss viewing this masterpiece. 

The city again felt the heavy hand of war during WWII when German troops bombed it for 250 days inflicting tremendous damage. Ultimately in German hands, it was renamed Theodorichhafen. Within two years, the Red Army successfully liberated Sevastopol and honored her people by reconfirming it a “Hero City.” Residents rebuilt their city from the ashes and rubble. 

As recently as April 27, 2010, a new treaty was ratified confirming Russia’s lease on the nearby submarine base until 2017. Though this ratification process was not without challenges, documents were eventually signed. 

Today, what you see honors this illustrious past. Streets bear the names of important Soviet and Russian military figures who are revered as heroes. Their tales are told in hundreds of monuments found here and there. Some count as many as 1800 in total. 

You Mustn’t Miss The Highlights 

The Monument to the Scuttled Ships is a must, viewed from the Primorsky Boulevard waterfront and Grafskaya Landing Quay. The Panorama Museum, described previous, literally transports you back in time to see and feel the “Defense of Sevastopol from 1854-1855”. Images represent a single day in this terrible time. And the 19th-century Vladimirsky Cathedral, with the graves of eleven admirals killed in the line of duty, is worthy of a visit. Bullet holes still mar the exterior, testament to the pounding this city took during the Crimean War and WWII, known locally as the “Great Patriotic War”. 

From Sapoune Ridge Lord Ragland, Commander-in-Chief of the British Army, watched the disastrous slaughter during the British cavalry’s charge in the Crimean War’s Battle of Balaclava, October 25, 1854. As captured by Alfred Lord Tennyson’s The Charge of the Light Brigade, into the valley of death rode the 600. A memorial here remembers those troops and others lost during the 1941-42 liberation of Sevastopol. Malakhov Kurgan (Barrow), an open-air monument pays tribute to many killed in battle including Vice-Admiral V.A. Kornilov. 

There’s also the impressive ruins of Chersonesus of Tauria. Also spelled “Khersonesos”, this site originally was Heraclea, a Greek colony from 442 B.C. 

For many, the highlight of Sevastopol is the Balaklava Nuclear Submarine Base, in operation until 1993. Three years later, the last Russian submarine sailed from this base. Now open to the public, visitors should enquire whether they’ll be able to visit privately, not on tour. If so, the Sheremetyev Submarine Museum is a must. 

With history swirling about in your head and your memory card filled with photos, pause to honor those who sacrificed in the defense of their fine city. And some day read Tolstoy’s “During the Crimean War” and “Sebastopol Sketches” depicting the author’s time as a soldier. 

                                                            Karyn L. Planett

Tortola, BVI

Christopher Columbus must have been elated when he spotted the white sands of Tortola in the year 1493. He and his Spanish crew were splashing about in the Caribbean, island-hopping and making maps. While Columbus added Tortola to his list of “discovered” spots in the New World, his visit to Tortola was not without problems. The local indigenous people, such as the ferocious Caribs – who had already annihilated the Arawaks who had already tangled with the Ciboney – were less than willing to share their paradise with anyone. In fact, they made Columbus’ visit so unpleasant he drew up anchor and sailed away. 

Unfortunately, the Spanish returned to Tortola and meted out their revenge. They absolutely decimated the entire Indian population within a century of Columbus first spying these islands.

One hundred years after Columbus’ call in Tortola, a British fellow named Sir Francis Drake crested the horizon and he too left his mark on this land. In fact, the channel directly south of Tortola still carries Drake’s name. 

The Tug and Pull for Power 

The Spanish and the Dutch rumbled over these islands for some time. In 1648, a pack of Dutch buccaneers erected a fort and created a small community on the island of Tortola. Ultimately it was the British who entered the fray and prevailed in this scuffle in 1672 by successfully annexing the islands to Britain. 

With peace at hand, the door was opened for a wave of immigrants who flooded in. Among them were Quaker missionaries who were sent here to establish a life in this pleasant outpost. However, their work was cut out for them because this region was to again know turmoil. It literally became open season on cargo ships for the buccaneers, freebooters and pirates who plied these waters. Robert Lewis Stevenson was so captivated by these marauding tales that he eventually captured the essence of this swashbuckling history in his popular book, Treasure Island. 

Fortunately, these turbulent times also passed, and calm and order were restored. In time, plantation owners came here to mark their boundaries, cut down the forests, and develop working plantations instead. 

Tourism has spiraled into a major industry for the island. More and more visitors from around the world arrive daily by planes, cruise ships, yachts, and ferries to explore the white-sand beaches, clear-water bays, and the popular night life. 

Tortola is the most heavily populated of the British Virgin Islands. In fact, close to 10,000 people call Tortola home. In addition, Road Town, the island’s largest city, is also respected as the island’s capital as well as the administrative center. The majority of the residents are descendants of African slaves who were brought here aboard squalid slave ships from West Africa in the 18th and 19th centuries. 

Mountains, Baths, and More 

As a British Crown Colony, the spirit on the 21-square-mile island of Tortola is obviously… well, British. And, as such, the people present themselves as proper hosts who are eager to introduce you to their island’s most important sights. 

With Mount Sage as your landmark, standing 1,780-feet tall, you’re not likely to get lost during your exploration. However, if you do lose your way, you’ll soon be pointed in the right direction as everyone speaks English. And, when you are on the correct path, have a look at Sage Mountain National Park, complete with its rain forest which has been protected in its natural state. In keeping with this “nature” theme, take time for a visit to the Botanical Gardens. 

If you possess an even greater sense of adventure in your soul, you can boat over to Virgin Gorda for a swim in the Baths. The Virgin Gorda Baths are a delightful collection of sea caves and natural pools formed by a jumbled mass of boulders. 

When you dry the salt water from your shoulders, head back to Road Town at the end of the day. A cool fresh-island-fruit punch just might be waiting with your name on it. 

                                                                                Karyn L. Planett

Ponce, Puerto Rico

South Side Story 

“Puerrrrrrto Rico! My heart’s devotion…”   

Travelers tend to have three different and distinct impressions of Puerto Rico. One, they’ve seen West Side Story and think that all Puerto Ricans live in New York City. Two, they’ve been to or through San Juan on their way to somewhere else in the Caribbean and assume it represents the rest of Puerto Rico. Or three, they’ve spent some time in Ponce and have a sense of the true culture and history of this very unique island. 

If you’re not in category three, this is your lucky day. 

The Other Puerto Rico 

All too often we allow “gateway” cities to define the countries for which they are merely an entry point. Is the rest of England really like London, as wonderful as it is? Is Italy like Rome, or Japan like Tokyo? Is the U.S. like Los Angeles or New York, or is Chicago the most “American” of our big cities?           

San Juan has the advantage and disadvantage of being the gateway to Puerto Rico. It thrives in that capacity and defines our view of Puerto Rico. But the very presence of so much foreign influence puts San Juan in the company of other international cities. 

Ponce is Puerto Rico unfiltered, unplugged, but far from unadorned. 

The Pearl Of The South 

In Ponce you can be immersed in the often overlooked but very rich culture of Puerto Rico. The island, like much of the rest of the Caribbean, was settled by the Spanish who immediately spread their seed among the indigenous Indian population. But the richness of the culture is derived from the waves of immigration that followed Spanish dominance, most of which came through the southern part of the island where Ponce is located. 

In the 1800s alone there arrived French citizens fleeing the Haitian Revolution; wealthy merchants and businessmen from Cuba, Colombia, Venezuela and other Latin American countries declaring their independence from Spain; and Europeans taking advantage of Spain’s offer to accept citizens of any politically-friendly country as settlers in Puerto Rico. By the end of the century, Ponce had become the largest city on the island and center for the music, art and cuisine that defines so much of the Caribbean experience.

America Intrudes 

The Spanish-American War began as an intervention into the Cuban War of Independence, spread to Puerto Rico, Guam, and the Philippines, and after three months and a charge up San Juan Hill, ended with the U.S. taking possession of all those Spanish assets except Cuba. The war effectively ended the Spanish Empire and inaugurated the “American Empire”. 

The good news for today’s visitors is that the new American owners immediately moved administration of the island to San Juan, which had a better harbor and was closer to “home”. As a result Ponce was frozen in time and was able to avoid much of the cultural modernization that took place in the north. The bad news was a period of economic stagnation that took the better part of the 20th century to reverse. 

Ponce En Marcha 

In the last couple of decades, an ambitious revitalization project has transformed Ponce into a living museum. Billions have been spent restoring over one thousand buildings in the city’s historic center. An organization called Project For Public Places has placed Ponce on its list of 60 of the World’s Great Places, calling it a “graciously preserved showcase of Caribbean culture.” 

Museums dot the restored streets of Distrito Histórico. Architecture, music, art, theater, and history are all celebrated in buildings that have been reclaimed from more difficult times. Best are the Ponce Museum of Art and the Museum of Puerto Rican Music. The Parque de Bombas Museum is the city’s most recognizable landmark, a red and black striped firehouse located in the central square behind the Ponce Cathedral. As expected it features the colorful history of Ponce’s firefighters. 

Outside of the downtown area, you might want to clamber up the hill (actually, you can take a taxi) that features the Cruceta El Vigía (a cross housing an observation tower) and Serrallés Castle, former home of the DonQ Rum family. It was from this vantage point that the invading American fleet was spotted in 1898. Near there is the Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center that, thanks to erosion from a 1975 hurricane, became the most important archeological site in the West Indies. 

Finish your day with a stroll along the La Guancha Boardwalk on the city’s seafront. Certainly you’ll find some uniquely Caribbean form of refreshment to round out your taste of true Puerto Rico. 

                                                                        Karyn L. Planett

The Great Australian Bight

The Outback Of The Seas

Let’s start with a definition. A bight is, at its simplest, a bend or curve in a geographical feature usually occurring between land and water. Early explorers defined a bight as a bay they could sail out of without tacking. Now, one could be excused for not knowing the true definition and merely assuming that naming the Australian Bight was merely a matter of looking at a map of the coastline and imagining a bite taken out of it by some giant continent-eating sea monster. Whatever!

And, it’s tempting to say of this nearly uninhabited part of Australia that there’s no there there. But, in fact, there is a great deal of interest here both at sea and ashore.

The Roaring Forties

The Great Australian Bight opens into the Southern Ocean, newest of the world’s five oceans and the only one unbroken by any land mass. It’s been known for centuries as the Roaring 40s because of the prevailing westerly winds that howl constantly along this band between 40 and 50 degrees south latitude. These are the winds that have made the Tasman Sea, the Cape of Good Hope, and the Drake Passage such storied bodies of water. The part of the Southern Ocean we sail in today is considered the roughest and most dangerous body of water for competitors in round-the-world yacht races like the Vendee Globe. That’s really because a yacht in trouble here is quite far from any land-based assistance. We’re bigger. We’re fine.

A Marine Desert

The seabed at the Bight is relatively shallow but has little of the rich marine life that characterizes most continental shelves. Home to many sharks and whales, it nevertheless lacks the kind of abundance that supports commercial fishing. The seabed here is actually an extension of an inland desert known as the Nullarbor Plain. What little rain falls inland runs mostly away from the sea so there is none of the natural fertilization that takes place around similar continental shelves. Even so, the coastline here features soaring cliff faces up to 100 feet high jutting straight from the sea seemingly guarding the mysteries of the Nullarbor Plain beyond.

Crossing The Nullarbor

The Nullarbor Plain is the world’s largest single piece of limestone, encompassing 77,200 square miles, and spanning over 700 miles at its widest point. The highway that traverses it has a ninety-mile long straightaway and crossing it has become the ultimate outback experience. To early settlers of the Australian continent, the plain was impassable and formed a natural barrier that isolated the towns of western Australia from the rest of the country.

In 1841, Edward John Eyre, who described the Nullarbor as “the sort of place one gets into in bad dreams”, made the first harrowing but successful crossing. Setting out from Fowler’s Bay in South Australia with a companion and three Aboriginal men as guides, Eyre endured more than just the natural hardships. Two of the guides killed his companion and made off with all the expedition’s supplies. But Eyre and the remaining guide were able to complete the journey and give heart to later travelers, the telegraph, and eventually the Trans-Australian Railway, which has its own record-breaking stretch of over 300 miles of dead straight track. 

The Nullarbor Nymph

Lightly settled, harsh environments like the Nullarbor give rise to more than their fair share of losers, legends and lunatic behavior. Towns such as Cook, once a thriving railway stop along the straight bit but now a ghost town harboring its last four citizens, are the typical stories. At Marilinga, a place of spiritual significance to Aboriginal peoples, there were seven nuclear tests conducted in the 50s. No one is sure whether contamination still exists, and no one is sure whether all the inhabitants were cleared out before or after the testing.

Eucla lies astride the Eyre Highway and is the only location with a direct view of the Australian Bight. In its early days Eucla was one of the most important telegraph stations on the line. In the 1890s a plague of rabbits ate most of the indigenous vegetation destabilizing the sand dunes, which soon began to swallow the town.

By the 1970s, Eucla had a population of only eight but received worldwide attention when photographs were published of a half naked blonde girl who had gone “bush” and was living with the local kangaroo population. By the time the press had quadrupled the town’s population, it became clear that the ruse had been perpetrated by the owner of the town’s only hotel and restaurant, and the blonde girl on film turned out to be a 17-year-old model. Chalk it up to another classic tale of the Outback.

The Camargue, France

            “Oh, give me land lots of land

            Under starry skies above.           

            Don’t fence me in.” 

Cole Porter probably wasn’t thinking about the crusty saltpans or waterlogged bogs of France’s famous Camargue region when he scribbled these famous lyrics. But this is exactly the rough-and-tumble backwater, dubbed “French Texas”, where wild ponies and wilder cattle do run free, not fenced in. Porter, like so many others, was probably unaware of this vast, sparse wetlands of Southern France covering 250,000 acres of the Rhone River’s delta, Western Europe’s largest. The Camargue is truly off the beaten path of most world travelers yet definitely worth a detour big or small. 

The swampy marshland of the Camargue is home to true salt-of-the-earth folks who toil long days under a brutal sun cultivating rice paddies and tending to those saltpans called salins. Centuries ago, the Romans coveted this valuable land, as salt was essential for curing food before the invention of refrigeration. It was, however, the French who introduced “la gabelle”, a salt tax levied in 1341 that remained in effect until the French Revolution in 1791. Those most affected were the landed aristocracy ensconced in vast manades, or ranches, usually home to more than 200 bulls. Following World War II, the labyrinth of irrigation and drainage ditches as well as inland saltwater lakes, called etangs, was expanded and rice farming flourished, creating Europe’s first rice-growing region. These shallow bodies of water also attracted flamingoes, counting 20,000 pairs in sky-tinting flocks. 

The Camargue is most famous for her colorful gypsies, called gitans, whose arrival date is as elusive as a wisp of smoke. In nearby Arles, written accounts of these wandering entertainers do date back to 1438. Today’s descendants, gardian cowboys, make their homes in thatched houses called cabanes kept safe from evil spirits by bull’s horns mounted above the doorways. Their garb includes typical wide-brimmed black felt hats, leather pants, and an iron trident used on their cattle. The trident’s symbol is also incorporated in the distinctive Camargue Cross. 

These swarthy, stout men ride sturdy Camargue horses, ponies actually, born dark then turning “white” at approximately age five. Considered among the world’s oldest breeds, they resemble prehistoric horses in early cave paintings. Though branded, these ponies run free alongside the famous black bulls known as bouvines that often end up in the bullring. It was Spanish Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, who introduced bullfighting to nobility and widespread popularity. The courses a la cocarde is the traditional Camargue bullfight where razeteurs, young men whose bravado trumps sanity, pluck ribbons neatly tied between the bull’s horns. 

Each year, the people of the Camargue celebrate their vibrant heritage in a series of festivals in villages scattered about. Easter signals the parade of local women in Arlesian costumes and cowboys on horseback by the hundreds. Late spring and throughout summer, other gatherings and fairs reward curious outsiders who unexpectedly stumble upon this forgotten landscape. Often, an evening around a glowing campfire allows time to fill in the untold chapters of these exotic people who long ago put down their roots in these windswept marshes and carved out their colorful way of life. 

Bordeaux, France

Le Miroir d’Eau 

This “mirror, mirror” is not on the wall, but spread across the flat waterfront of the Garonne River in Bordeaux. One could say, as these water features go, it is “the fairest of them all” with 900 syncopated jets that spray and mist and froth and bubble and fizzle and fog and haze in the hot French summer sun. All this, mind you, is to the delight of little jeune filles and garçons who sprint and chase each past splashes and rainbows.           

But who is behind this magical, whimsical design? 

Jean-Max LLorca 

It’s been said that this water spectacle was the brainchild of Jean-Max Llorca. He’s described as a French designer of urban fountains with installations the world over. He is the go-to guy who knows exactly how to put punch in his water. 

The Miroir d’Eau (or Water Mirror) is found sprawling between the Quai Louis XVIII and Quai de la Douane, adjacent to the Place de la Bourse. Translated to mean, “Stock Exchange Square,” it was originally built as a royal square dedicated to Louis XV. How could this French ruler have imagined in his wildest dreams that this setting would become the backdrop for this Miroir des Quais, as it is also known. 

This water mirror is touted to be the world’s largest, measuring over 37,000 square feet. And, it was indeed constructed by Monsieur Llorca in 2006, for he is recognized as one of the world’s finest fountain specialist. He and Michel Corajoud were awarded the Bordeaux Mayor’s Prize, as well as the coveted French National Prize for Urban development in 2008. 

For just the basic statistics, know that the water plays across a massive black granite slab at a depth of less than one inch yet the mist can waft into the air 6.5 feet. This fog swirls into the afternoon heat every 15 minutes. And, despite all the best planning and timing, squealing little ones and others as well get caught up in this splashy surprise and must choose between a right proper soaking or a dash to drier ground. 

The mechanics, in addition to the magic, are riveting. There’s a massive underground tank that stores all the water needed for this display. A web of tiny canals feed small tubes that flood the surface in unison. It is ultimately drained back into the tank so the water can emerge again from 900 injectors that create the thick diaphanous mist.

Claire and Michel Corajoud 

“Le paysage c’est l’endroit où le ciel et la terre se touchent.” 

Don’t touch Spellcheck. Those words … “The landscape is the place where heaven and earth meet” … were spoken by Michel Corajoud. He, along with his wife Claire are celebrated French landscape architects and they, too, played a significant role in this marvel. Their genius helped design the perfect setting, the esplanade along the Garonne River, with floral gardens and cleverly laid-out lighting like those in Le Jardin des Lumières. This brings joy to an endless stream of strollers, dogs, skaters, pensioners at their own pace, lovers lost in space, and photography buffs wanting that perfect backlit shot.           

Well, it’s time to join the throngs dashing about in the fine mist or stand on the sidelines enjoying the merriment of those who do.                                                                       

Sinbad

Drama on The High Seas 

Once upon a time, in a land far, far away there lived a lovely Persian princess named Scheherazade. She had flowing black locks, skin as fair as porcelain, an insatiable thirst for knowledge, and the magical gift of storytelling. Scheherazade passed the warm evenings reciting poetry, debating philosophical points of view, musing on a host of topics, and matching wits with any man.            

Yet it was a King Shahryar who proved to be her greatest challenge. It is said that his monarch “married” a virgin every day then had her beheaded the next morning to avenge his first wife’s betrayal. Some 3,000 women suffered this horrible fate before our lovely Scheherazade entered the scene. And, despite her father’s protests, Scheherazade plotted to spend one night with King Shahryar to secretly test him with her storytelling magic. Meanwhile our princess had set a trap and asked permission to bid farewell to her sister Dunyazad who was part of the scheme. This sister begged Scheherazade to recite one last tale, a story with plots and twists and turns and imagery that lasted till daybreak. The king, captivated by this enchanting story, begged the storyteller to return with another chapter the following evening. Thus he was forced to keep her alive so more of her story could be revealed.           

So, for the following 1000 nights, Scheherazade recited her tales to the king’s delight, so much so that he not only permitted her to live but fathered three sons by her. In time, King Shahryar blossomed into a changed man with a deepening respect for women, far greater kindness, and an unshakable sense of morality. Scheherazade became his queen and they lived happily ever after. 

The Book Of A Thousand And One Nights 

Scheherazade’s stories form the basis for this book for which she is the narrator. Sinbad the Sailor is one of these “story-cycles” of Persian origin recounting the wild tales of a young sailor from Basrah (in present day Iraq). Other stories include Aladdin as well as Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves. Scholars claim these tales date back to 800-900 AD though no original manuscripts have ever been found. Never mind. Let’s just get to the good part, the part that happens on the 536th night of the 1001. 

Sinbad The Sailor 

Sinbad, as the story goes, had squandered all his inheritance so he was forced to take to the seas to rebuild his fortune. Very quickly we discover his pattern of missteps, mistakes, and challenges. His first voyage includes details of confusing a giant fish for an island, being adrift on the open sea, and washing ashore only to be embraced by the local king who showers him with gold so he can return to Baghdad a wealthy man. 

During The Second Voyage of Sinbad the Sailor, our lead character becomes “possessed with the thought of traveling about the world of men and seeing their cities and islands”.  Sound familiar? He winds up stranded in a remote valley with massive snakes and even bigger birds called rocs. Curiously, the valley floor is strewn with a carpet of shiny diamonds so Sinbad coats his back with meat, a roc carries him to its diamond-lined nest and our protagonist escapes with a bag of sparkling gems, returning to Baghdad even richer than before.           

The Third Voyage of Sinbad finds our hero captured by a monster that makes Jabba the Hut look like Raggedy Andy. Sinbad manages to blind the monster and escape. But, wait! He then has to wriggle from the grasp of a massive python before returning home with immense wealth. Sinbad shares his riches with the downtrodden thus capturing the moral highground.           

On his fourth voyage, all hell breaks loose. Sinbad is forced to wrangle with naked cannibals who are high on a local narcotic. Thankfully, he’s rescued by a neighboring king who gives him his wealthy daughter as a bride. The twist here is that, upon the death of one partner, the other is entombed with the corpse. Don’t you just hate when that happens? Sinbad’s darker side emerges (think Survivor) as he becomes entombed then steals from other bereaved spouses in the same pickle and lives to fight another day.           

The Fifth Voyage of Sinbad is when his ship is sunk by angry rocs in revenge for sailors devouring their chick. Our hero becomes enslaved by the Old Man of The Sea (not …”and The Sea” of Hemingway fame). This dotty sod wraps his legs around Sinbad’s neck and rides him day and night till Sinbad begs for death. He manages to escape to the City Of Apes for another drama before going home again even richer.           

The Sixth Voyage – shipwreck, riverbed of precious stones, no food. Your basic cliffhanger but this one takes place in Sri Lanka and includes a cup carved from a single ruby and a serpent that swallows an elephant.           

The Seventh (and final) Voyage of Sinbad The Sailor wraps things up neatly with another Chief’s daughter for a wife and birds that carry him to the heavens for God’s messages. Our Arabic Idol Sinbad returns to Baghdad to live out his final days happily everafter, adventure no longer ruling his very soul.

Rugby

Ruggers, Scrums and Mauls 

New Zealand’s winningest rugby team, the All Blacks, is described as “eight snorting bulls and seven black panthers.” Too right. This mass of muscle has grunted and ground its unlucky opponents into the turf again and again guaranteeing their names would be engraved on trophies ‘round the world. Rugby is this nation’s pastime, its passion, its drumbeat that musters Kiwis coast to coast. Just ask a local and he’ll tell you all about this craziness. 

Born in Britain

As the story goes, in 1823 England a student at the esteemed Rugby School named William Webb Ellis “took the ball in his arms and ran showing a fine disregard.” Having tired of simply kicking a soccer ball willy-nilly William grabbed the ball, headed toward the goal, and created a sport of global dimensions. 

The Brits are fond of saying “football is a game for gentlemen played by ruffians and rugby is a game for ruffians played by gentlemen.” The world is changing, however, and New Zealand boasts an excess of 500 clubs, nearly 150,000 registered players, and some 2300 plus referees to keep everything in order. Just imagine … 5,000 fans show up just for an All Blacks training practice! 

The Christchurch Football Club is New Zealand’s oldest rugby club, dating back to 1863. Others popped up wherever there was a patch of grass and a handful of guys. The stature and strength of the indigenous Maori people meant these players were a force to be reckoned with, as the outside world quickly learned. In 1884, a New Zealand team traveled to Australia and won all their games setting the tone for victories that followed. During World War II, the Kiwi team played against South African allies during the North African desert campaign, establishing the contact for future competition as rugby is a national sport to these two nations as well as several South Pacific island nations. 

All Blacks, Springboks and Wallabies 

These are the big boys, teams whose players enjoy handsome endorsements, speedy cars and lissome babes fawning all over them. And they’d like you to learn a bit about their game. Their field is a “pitch” measuring 110 by 75 yards. The ball is like an American football with rounder ends to avoid goofy bounces. The team consists of 15 players. Those numbered 1-8 are forwards and built like brick &*%^&%houses. The 9-15 guys are faster, smaller (relatively speaking) and run like American running backs and wide receivers. There are no downs, no blocking, and the game has two 40-minute halves. Play is continuous, like soccer. A player can run the ball, pass it laterally or backwards, or kick it forward. For the record, some call rugby the “father of American football.” 

The players score 5 points with a “try”, think touchdown. A “conversion” adds 2 points following a try when the ball is kicked between the goal posts. A “penalty kick” awards 3 points as does a “drop goal.” 

“Line outs” are the best part. This is so strange. When a ball goes out of bounds, players hoist a teammate up into the air with everyone going airborne to gain possession of the inbound toss. It’s like Shrek doing gymnastics or rising up from a mosh pit. A “scrum” is considered the precursor to an American scrimmage where manly men literally lock horns, grunting and groaning till the ball flops on the ground, is kicked to someone not in the scrum and play begins again. Play doesn’t stop if someone is tackled. A “ruck” is like a “scrum” but don’t ask. A “maul” is like a ruck and a scrum but the guys are standing up instead of wrestling on the ground. Is this clear?           

More “Rugby-Speak” 

Sin-Bin:   Where a bad player goes for a “time out.”

Rugby Union: A code of play for teams of the International Rugby Board.

Rugby League:  The other guys.

Prolate spheroid:  The ball.

Scratch:  Not what you think.

Touch:  No. It’s the area behind the touch (or goal) line.

Ruggers:   Rugby Union fans.

Rugger Buggers:  Fans in striped shirts drinking Guinness.

Rug-Off:  The kick off.

Alickadoos:   Retired rugby union players.

Ra-Ra:  The obligatory sideline pomp and circumstance.

Footy:  What the Australians call rugby leaguers.

Haka:  The fearsome Maori war dance performed by the All Blacks before they clean the other team’s clock. 

Rugbiana 

Any fan worth his “stout” will sport his team’s full kit including grip mitts, Ventilator Headgear ($89.99), Shock Doctor Ultra Strapless Mouthguards, braces for everything from patella sleeves to metatarsal lifts, curious “forearm shivers”, hoodies, protective vests, traxion-studded boots with something called … ahem… a stud key, Shock Doctor Compression Shorts with Flex Cup (on sale for $24.99), and a suitable-for-the-little-lady “stress ball” or the “Rugby For Dummies” handy gamebook. For the master of the house, there’s “Odd-Shaped Balls, Mischiefs, Miscreants and Madhatters of Rugby” now on sale. And for the fashionistas, you’ve got the Ralph Lauren “Rugby” collection instead.

Mahjong

The “Chattering Sparrows” 

The long, bone-shattering chill of winter has been swept aside by gentler days warmed by a faithful spring sun. Farmers take to the fields to till the soil, plant their seeds, and prepare for a bountiful summer harvest. At day’s end, they relax outside their modest houses perching on miniature stools seemingly more suitable for a small child than for a grown man. Before them, a worn-with-time table strewn with bone tiles no longer white from years of handling and play. In one rough and gnarled hand a smoky cigarette burns undisturbed while the farmer’s other hand is busy shuffling (called the “twittering of the sparrows”) and slamming down tiles, a warning to his undaunted opponents of a fresh attack. 

At the same time, in a soaring high-rise building far from that farmer’s village, a clutch of privileged women with slender hips, designer fashions, porcelain-white hands, and perfectly-manicured nails repeat the same ritual though their tiles are carved of ivory* and their decorated lounge room is large enough to accommodate several gaming tables simultaneously.

The common thread, the age-old link between these two disparate communities, is the game of mahjong that remains even in today’s world of video games one of Asia’s most popular pastimes. 

What’s In A Name? 

The word “mahjong” means “chattering sparrows.” 

Why, you ask? Well, it’s claimed by some that the rattle and rhythm of a fast-paced game of mahjong resembles, as you might surmise, chattering sparrows. To test that theory, should you happen upon a game being played in the shade of some leafy tree, close your eyes and decide for yourself if this is an apt translation. 

But, don’t be afraid to engage some of the seasoned players who, though probably not interested in spending the entire afternoon with a rookie, a novice such as yourself, will be only to happy to tell you a bit about the basics of this game they find so entertaining. 

Games Are A Way Of Life

People across the length and breadth of Asia enjoy playing games, all sorts of games like Chinese Chess, Chinese dominoes, and a game called go. They’re a hardworking people who enjoy their leisure time with an equal level of passion for their work. And, they love to gamble. 

Be cautioned that before you do sit in on a game of mahjong, you should definitely learn a bit about it though that’s going to be hard to do. First off, absolutely no one agrees about its origin. Some say the game was possibly created by Confucius, others trace it back to Noah’s Ark, while still others believe the game dates back to the self-proclaimed Emperor of Nanking Hung Hsiu-Ch’uan. It’s also claimed that the current version of the game began in China in about 1850, but games that are very similar to today’s mahjong go way back to the Sung Dynasty (960-1279 AD). Some historians even pinpoint its origins to Ningbo, China. That all leads us to the mid- to late-19th century with the appearance of the mahjong we know now. As one expert states, the game came into existence around 1880 and all the other stories are mere rubbish. He goes on to say, there are really two distinctive periods ... pre-1920 when the game was played almost exclusively by Chinese and everything after that when mahjong was introduced to the rest of the world.

Amazingly, mahjong even caught on in North America and in Europe where Westerners would don Chinese costumes and give it a go. It was all the rage and a man named Joseph Babcock is credited for some of its popularity. It was he who imported mahjong sets into America in 1922 as well as streamlined the rules to simplify the game so it would appeal to a wider audience. 

In Japan and Korea you’ll find three players in a mahjong game, while in China it’s usually four. The sets contain 144 tiles that are similar to dominoes. Some tiles are decorated with a variety of designs and are divided into suits. In fact, there are 36 tiles in each of the following suits – Bamboo, Circuit, and Character. In addition there are 16 Wind tiles, 12 Dragon tiles, and 8 “bonus” tiles comprised of 4 Seasons and an equal number of Flowers. As the game progresses, the tiles are selected and discarded again and again until the winning player presents a hand with four combinations of three tiles each and a pair of matching lines. For Rummy players, there isn’t much of a learning curve because the two games are basically the same, or at least quite similar 

Mahjong Today

Though no longer the worldwide craze or the fashionable fad it once was, mahjong is still played by people across Asia. For a contemporary twist you can even play mahjong online with such games like “Great Wall”, “Bullseye”, “Pyramid”, “Fish”, “Snake”, even “Teeth” and “UFO”.

For the true purists who want a little more of a mahjong fix, pick up a copy of Agatha Christie’s The Murder of Roger Ackroyd. Flip to the chapter titled “An Evening At Mahjong”, order a single malt, and get in the mood for an evening of intrigue.        

How Fish Swim

Swimming With The Fishes

Not in a “Sopranos” kind of way, but for real. When we sink below the surface of the tepid Pacific waters, a whole world unfolds before us. Like an aquatic ballet, millions of fish in a rainbow of colors zip to and fro turning on a dime at the command of their alpha fish or dodging a predator’s dark shadow. These animals are magical, a constant source of enjoyment … from a glass-bottomed boat, behind an aquarium window, or within an arms length while snorkeling or diving. Their magic deserves a closer look. 

Mr. Wizard Chimes In

For the record, there are some 25,000 known species of fish. And, they all fall into one of three categories – the jawless, the cartilaginous, and the bony fish. An example of the first group, the most primitive of the lot dating back some 500 million years, is the lamprey. Among the cartilaginous ones are the sharks and skates that only came onto the scene 400 million years ago. They don’t have bones only a cartilage skeleton thus the easier on the diner. They do, however, have nasty teeth and can be a tad unfriendly if provoked. And the last group, though bony, has the long-envied, oft lusted-after swim bladder. See what evolution gets you! They count among them some 20,000 of the known species therefore representing the most numerous. You’ve got your eels, catfish, salmon, perch, pike, herring, even seahorses among the bony group so they’re virtually everywhere.

Let’s Do Some Dissecting

To discover exactly how fish … ahem … swim, let’s look at their anatomy. As with people, the sleek and trim among the school move through their obstacles with ease. The density of the water impedes forward movement so Mother Nature designed fish to be slim and slimy. Your fast swimmers actually flex their muscles one side then the next to wriggle merrily along rather like a snake in the grass. Large tail fins add a bit of a kick to the forward movement while the body fins serve as stabilizers. These body fins can also lie flat against the fish’s torso to further streamline its profile.

Now some fish sorta row themselves along with fluttery pectorals, deprived of all other means of propulsion. A good example of this is the adorable seahorse, one of the sea’s most lovable creatures (ruling out the other all time favorite, the sea slug). Flying fish sport pecs that have evolved into wings that help propel them across the waves when escaping from someone wanting to eat them. Rays themselves have large and very powerful pectoral fins that also resemble wings to let them glide along almost effortlessly. They are truly poetry in motion.          

How Fish Float

Well, that’s pretty tricky. Many fish actually sink, which is dicey for those who aren’t bottom fish. This is exactly why sharks swim tilted upward, to combat gravity not just to see if you’re watching from above. Their oily livers and light-as-a-feather skeletons help them stay afloat. Then you’ve your pike that’s developed a different solution to the problem – an inflatable gas bladder! You guessed it. By controlling the amount of gas in his bladder, he can float merrily along blissfully unaware of the scorn from his fellow pike who don’t dare suggest playing “pull the fin” if you know what I mean. Such is life.

Some Factoids To Remember 

·               A fish’s body temperature is consistent with the surrounding water temperature.

·               Swordfish have been known to swim 60 mph and can actually poke a hole in a wooden boat at that speed.

·               Some catfish in Africa actually swim upside down enabling them to skim the water’s surface with their opened mouth in search of a good meal.

·               There are flatfish that actually propel themselves along by gasping in huge mouthfuls of water then squirting them out through their gills with such force it reminds us of a sort of liquid jet engine or aquatic SuperSoaker.

Well, all this matters not to those of us simply looking for a delicious, delicately poached piece of fresh fish dressed with a delightful white wine and lemon froth. We’re quite happy, in fact, that someone was cagey enough to outsmart the little buggers and catch them for our supper. Sorry as that may be we are, after all, thankfully higher on the food chain.

Glaciers

Wet and Wild

When is a glacier not a glacier? When it is a wee flake of snow fluttering about in the frozen air drifting here and there in search of a spot to alight. When more flakes accumulate than are melted away by a sunny day, a glacier is born flake by flake by flake until the weight of it all compacts the snow into solid ice. This is when it begins its crushingly-slow grind to the sea, sculpting and scouring everything in its path resembling a sloth-like teenager on the way to study hall. 

Chile’s Amalia Glacier

For the record, some know the Amalia Glacier as the Skua Glacier. Skuas are local seabirds whose migratory patterns take them as far south as the South Pole. When checking the sea charts, you’ll notice that (by either name) this glacier is found bordering the Sarmiento Channel in Southern Chile. Visitors from around the world make their way to Bernardo Higgins National Park to stand before the powerful ice blue face of this magnificent glacier as it meets the Sarmiento Channel. Glaciologists will recite that this massive ice flow was born in what’s called the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Many of these experts express concern over the fact that it receded four miles over a 50-year period that ended in 1996. In fact, some concern continues to this day.

Visitors hope that the mist rises and the clouds part to display before them one of Mother Nature’s most remarkable miracles. Bundled up, finding a spot along the railing, they grab a cup of hot cocoa and have their cameras ready for calvings might miraculously happen right before their very eyes. If someone shouts, “Look, over there!” they’ve probably already missed the big event.

Ask Mr. Wizard

Scientists watch glaciers with rapt attention monitoring their movements, recording their sounds, photographing their sudden shifts as bits and bergs collapse and break away from the icy grip to plunge into the sea. Meanwhile, they fill tomes with facts and stats so let’s have a look at a few.

Q:            Why is glacial ice blue?

A:            Because dense ice that’s been compressed over time has few air pockets. The ice is so dense, in fact, that it reflects the color blue while absorbing the other colors of the spectrum. 

Q:            Why is some glacial ice white?

A:            This occurs when the ice is filled with miniscule air bubbles.

Q:            How much fresh water is stored in the world’s glaciers?

A:            You’ll be surprised to learn that the number is nearly 70%.

Q:            How heavy is a glacier?

A:            Heavy. Really heavy. There are places in the West Antarctica Ice Sheet where the weight is so massive that it’s pushed the land down nearly 1.5 miles below the surface of the sea. 

Q:            How thick is the Antarctic ice?

A:            Some estimates are approximately 4,200 meters in certain regions. That’s more than 13,000 feet. 

Q:            What would happen if all the glacial ice melted?

A:            You could probably surf in Kansas.

Q:            Do people drink glacial run-off??

A:            The state of Washington gets hundreds of billions of gallons of water every summer from glacial melt.

Q:            How big are ice shelves?

A:            Some are nearly 50 miles long. Fifty miles long! 

Q:            Was it really different during the last ice age?

A:            Yes. Glaciers, in fact, covered nearly one-third the earth’s surface.

Q:            How big is the tip of the iceberg?

A:            Only about 10% of the total size of the iceberg.

Q:            Any recent calvings of note?

A:            Yes. Not long ago in geologic terms, an iceberg broke off Antarctica’s Larsen Ice Shelf. It measured, they calculate, twice the size of Dallas. Not one to take these things lightly, the Texans broke off half their city and tossed it into the sea. (The last “fact” is, indeed, fiction.)       

Q:            How much of the earth is today covered by glaciers?

A:            Nearly 10%.            

Q:            Is glacial ice good in a tot of scotch?

A:            Yes. And, it fizzles.

Remember to wear your woolies when going outside for glacier-viewing. Mother Nature reminds all visitors that she, indeed, is in charge of all matters … even the weather. 

Buddhism

Who Was Buddha?

Gandhi, Buddha, King. Peacemakers all who sought to still the world’s anger and bring enlightenment to their followers.

What sparked these thinkers? From where did they draw their inspiration? How was their message spread to the masses? How was their wisdom judged?

For the journey ahead, Buddha’s teachings will be almost palpable. But, who was this man called Buddha?

Siddhartha Gautama

Sometime between 563 and 556 BC, a son was born on the rugged slopes of what is now Nepal. He was the child of a young, local prince called Suddhodana who named his son Siddhartha Gautama. This baby boy was raised in a world of riches, his comfortable surroundings lavished with earthly treasures, pleasures, and gifts.

Siddhartha Gautama grew to be a fine young man. At 16, as was the custom, he married a woman named Yasodhara and, before reaching his 30th birthday, fathered a son. Yet, despite being a grown man, Siddhartha Gautama had never strayed beyond the confines of the royal palace walls.

One day, Siddhartha Gautama did venture forth beyond his luxurious palace. A shocking truth assaulted him, for the outside world was not at all as he had imagined. He discovered, instead, sad people who lived in wrenching poverty, peasants who huddled in barren hovels, stooped souls who toiled long and hard in the harsh Nepalese climate. Few seemed barely able to feed their feeble children. Hope, it appeared, faded long, long ago.

Abandoning The Comforts

Siddhartha Gautama was so troubled by these visions that he decided to cast off his noble robes and set forth into the world to learn of its truths. While in the Indian state of Bihar, at a place called Uruvela, he rested in the cool shade of a bo tree. At that very moment he experienced what is known today as “enlightenment” and learned of its “Four Noble Truths.”

*            All existence involves suffering.

*            This suffering is caused by desire.

*            To remove this suffering you must escape desire.

*             To escape desire, you must follow the Eight-Fold Path that directs believers to distance themselves from all desires for world gratification.

Throughout the years, Siddhartha Gautama studied further and lived a simple life, never looking back to his comfortable past. He traveled to India’s holy city of Benares (also known as Varanasi) where a small group of Brahmins joined him as disciples. They referred to him as “The Enlightened One” or “Buddha.” Buddha continued his prayers and teachings until, in his 80s, he died following a meal of poisoned food.

Saffron Robes and Prayer Bowls

The morning sun is far from ushering in the dawn when bronzed temple bells awaken today’s Buddhist monks who have passed peaceful nights in their sacred temples or wats. Dressed in their simple robes, they emerge into the warming light after two hours of meditation and chanting. With brass or black lacquer offering bowls in hand, these monks wander through neighboring streets accepting offerings of food from passers-by who happily supply this morning meal for this act is viewed as a gesture of faith and goodwill. The monks then return to their temples for chores and a midday meal, the last of the day. This abstinence is in keeping with Lord Buddha’s practices, for he took no food in the afternoon or evening.

Widespread Following

Buddhism is practiced today throughout Asia, including Thailand, Myanmar (formerly Burma), Laos, Kampuchea (formerly Cambodia), Vietnam, Tibet, Nepal, China, Korea, Japan, and Sri Lanka, and is considered one of the world’s major religions. Ninety-three per cent of the Thai people are Buddhists, approximately 250,000 of whom are Buddhist monks who live by 227 rules. They are identified by their saffron robes and shaved heads. Few Buddhist nuns remain for their order no longer exists officially. Nuns seen today still wear white robes and shave their heads as well.

Young Thai males of approximately 20 years of age enter the monastery for, on the average, three months. (Some leave sooner, others remain years.) During this period, they gain merit for their parents and complete a passage some deem necessary for marriage.

Buddhist temples dot the landscape with their colorful spires and golden images of Buddha. Thai “spirit houses” can be found on almost every property including residences, office buildings, hotels, and shops. The local people can be seen praying at these spirit houses and presenting their daily offerings of fruits and flowers. It is said the sun’s shadow should never darken these mini-temples, which Somerset Maugham likened to “prizes in a shooting gallery at a village fair in the country of the gods.”

Narvik, Norway

“The Shetland Connection”

It was William Friedkin’s Academy-Award-winning film “The French Connection” that kept us on the edge of our theater seats, eyes riveted to the silver screen, scared out of our ever-lovin’ wits.  This celebrated director could and should apply that same talent to making a film about Scotland’s Sheltand Island connection to Norway during the dark days of World War II.  It’s a chapter in history that should never be forgotten … rich with intrigue, featuring a cast of brave freedom fighters, and all set in a landscape that’s the perfect backdrop for this story.  It’s where you will be today.

Truly, all hell broke lose for the proud people of Narvik in the opening days of April 1940 as the “Norwegian Campaign of World War II” began.  The fierce battle for the Ofotfjord, as well as the surrounding mountains, was underway.  German military tacticians theorized that control over Norway’s rugged coastline would enable their forces to protect vital iron ore shipments from Kiruna, Sweden to Narvik.  Kiruna was the location of one of the largest deposits of high-grade magnetite ore in the world, ore that was nearly 300% richer per ton than that from Alsace-Lorraine.  With the loss of these French deposits via the 1919 Versailles Treaty, the German steel industry was heavily dependent on Swedish iron ore for their production requirements.

Keeping control over Narvik’s ice-free port was critical as it was here the ore was loaded onto ships bound for Germany. The entire stretch of coastal Norway between Oslo and Narvik became a strategic prize for Hitler that would severely disrupt the Allies’ blockade of Germany.  His troops landed in Narvik despite the fact that two German destroyers were sunk in Narvik harbor.  Ultimately Norwegian, British, French and Polish troops brought their might to the fight.  Britain was also interested in the rich iron ore supply and also wanted to open a path for supplies and aid to Finland.  The French were interested in opening another front far from France that Hitler would have to defend.

The Battle of Narvik was considered the first Allied victory over Hitler’s military.  The Germans withdrew and, on May 28th, Allied troops retook the evacuated city. Then on June 8th, German forces retook Narvik and held control over it until the tragic chapter of World War II was ended some five years on, on May 8, 1945.  Before their withdrawal, the German troops obliterated the iron ore facilities.

So, what is it about a Shetland Connection?  With Germany’s occupation of Norway, her people were forced to flee to the West, to safety, to the Scottish Shetland Islands among other places.  They began training with British forces bent on somehow supplying their trapped countrymen with arms and communication equipment.  Tiny fishing boats brought escaping Norwegians to Shetland and returned, again and again, even across the harsh winter seas in the black of night.  Shetland became the base and refuge for the Norwegian resistance.  Back and forth they sailed to Norway with radio sets, ammunition, trained fighters, and weapons.  They returned with even more refugees.  To this day the people of both nations remember this emotional connection and share a destiny that was thrust upon them by the heavy hand of war.

The City Itself

Narvik is a mere 215 miles from the Arctic Circle so the summer days go long into the midnight-sunsplashed night, and winter is a stretch of endless darkness.  Her 19,000 residents are engaged not only in the busy activities associated with an active port, but also with tourism and technology.  Visitors come from Sweden, only 30 miles away, as well as the world over to fish, ski in the winter, visit the offshore islands, and hop aboard the 7-minute cable car ride to Fagernesfjellet Mountain for stunning views of the area. Of course many come to remember the events of WWII at the war cemeteries, the Chapel of Peace, and the War Memorial Museum.

Some travelers arrive in Narvik on the Ofoten Railway.  Other visitors to the city enjoy just a short trip on this same train simply for the scenery.  The one-hour journey across the 26-mile stretch to Sweden is easy compared to this same trek between the Swedish Lapland iron mines to Narvik undertaken first by reindeer, then horses.  Thankfully, in 1902 this nod to engineering magic was officially opened.  It’s claimed that this railroad was the most brutal to build due to the rugged terrain and freezing arctic weather.  That seems all forgotten by those traveling from Narvik to Riksgränsen for a day on the ski slopes.

What shouldn’t be forgotten is the time you sail.  Whether you’re a history buff, nature nut, medal-winning shopper, or simply a find-what-you-find wanderer, there’s plenty to fill your day in Narvik.

Brest, France

So You Think You’re in France?

Welcome to Brittany. Some may think of this as the northwestern most administrative region of France. Bretons, however, are not so sure. And with a name like Brittany, others could be excused for being a bit confused as well.

The problem is not a new one. Once upon a time, Brittany was referred to as Lesser Britain to distinguish it from Great Britain. In fact, many of the place references in the mythical history of Britain starring King Arthur, are actually in this part of France. The forest of Brocéliande in Arthur’s legend is nowadays believed to be Paimpont forest near the Breton city of Rennes. Conveniently there are some castle ruins there surrounded by a lake, which just might be associated with the Lady of the Lake, and a nearby dolmen that bears a striking resemblance to Merlin’s tomb.

The Romans considered this region part of Britannia, the Latin word meaning “Britons’ land”. And to top things off, Brittany is considered one of the six Celtic nations along with Scotland, Ireland, Wales, Cornwall and the Isle of Man. These are territories where Celtic languages and cultural identities survive today. The Breton anthem is even taken from those of Wales and Cornwall.

Bagpipes and Buckwheat

Formal cooperation between the Celtic nations (“nations” in this context refers to people sharing a common heritage) is active in politics, languages, culture, sports and music. The Festival Interceltique of Lorient (in southern Brittany) is just one such event where the unmistakable sound of skirling bagpipes can be heard along with Celtic harps accompanying vocals and dances. In the past several years, Brittany has experienced a significant revival of its folk music. Bands composed of bagpipes, bombards (a reed instrument similar to an oboe) and drums are a modern creation inspired by the Scottish pipe bands.

Also of Celtic origin are crêpes and galettes, two iconic Breton dishes. Galettes are most often made of buckwheat and are usually served with cheese, sausage, bacon, mushrooms and eggs as a basic meal. Not so basic, but just as rewarding, is to finish off that meal by enjoying a buttery crêpe dusted with sugar and a squeeze of lemon.

Liberté, Égalité, and a Good Smoke

A distinct cultural identity isn’t the only thing coursing through the veins of many Bretons. Politics is another contentious area that sets them apart from the rest of their French brethren. In fact, surveys have shown that half the population considers themselves as much Breton as French. They aspire, as do their Scottish “cousins”, to self-rule either as an independent country or within the political structure of France. They seek equality between Breton and French as the two official languages of the region. And they lobby consistently for more influence within the European Union, the United Nations and other international organizations.

Bretons are not without sympathizers in the rest of the country. Those who describe themselves as “Gallic” and identify with the ancient Gauls are aware that their forebears spoke Celtic languages. The term Gaulois means Gaulish people and refers to the original French people, to differentiate them from the descendents of “foreigners”. Gauloises is also a cigarette brand introduced in 1910 that features strong, knock-your-socks-off tobacco flavor. During World War II, smoking Gauloises came to symbolize patriotism and “heartland” values.

Making the Best of Brest

Besides being quintessentially Breton, Brest represents a proud French naval heritage and, as one of the finest ports on Europe’s Atlantic coast, was a center of conflict during many of Europe’s continental wars.

In 1631, Cardinal Richelieu, Louis XVIII’s chief minster, constructed the first military facilities around a castle that had stood watch over the harbor since the early Middle Ages. The French Naval Academy was established in Brest in 1752. During the Napoleonic Wars, World War I and World War II, Brest was a key military strongpoint, and target. The Battle for Brest in 1944 destroyed much of the city center.

As it turns out, the Battle for Brest was almost completely unnecessary, though military planners in the war’s early stages could not have known that. Knowing that the invasion of Europe was inevitable and that major port facilities would be needed to supply the armies attempting to defeat Germany, Allied brass saw Brest as a target that could be isolated and overcome in relatively short order. But what seemed easy in 1942 became nearly impossible after the Germans reinforced and refortified the port by 1944. Long before Allied bombers and German sappers destroyed the city and the port facilities, the rapid advance of the Allied armies had bypassed Brittany entirely.

The good news? The city was subsequently rebuilt and “deindustrialized” to the point that Brest today is a thriving, service oriented university town that you can now enjoy as you discover the delightful charms of this very un-French locale.

Solovetsky, Russia

Anguished Agony and Ecclesiastic Ecstasy

White Sea winter winds slam ashore with wrenching brutality. Summers can be heavy … laden with heat, humidity and Arctic mosquitoes in the bogs and Russian boreal taiga forests. Spring signals the hope of renewal while autumn announces a repeat of this seasonal cycle. There is an honest rhythm to life in the Solovetsky Archipelago. Her people possess the inner strength to endure these conditions, and choose to do so. While daily life remains one of endless challenges, the devout pray before the painted altars, listen to massive church bells peal from whitewashed belfries, and take comfort from the bearded black-robed priests who live, preach and seek spirituality by their side.

Important Dates and Facts

While scientists date man’s presence here to as long ago as the 5th millennium B.C., human habitation in this rugged landscape really began in approximately the 5th century B.C. when the climate was far more favorable than it is today. Our focus, however, is the history beginning in the 15th century when zealous monastic life began on Solovetsky, evidenced by the churches that were fully functioning from the 16th to 19th centuries. Followers built stone and timber villages, carved out an irrigation system with a series of canals to supply fresh water, and designed curious stone labyrinths, cairns and burial mounds. Birch, larch, and alder forests supplied the necessary lumber. Fieldstones became valuable building materials. And the waters around Prosperity Bay provided fish for all. Though this is all quite interesting, the important attraction for today’s visitors and the faithful alike is Solovetsky Monastery, the medieval Russian Orthodox monastic settlement.

It was during the 1430s that this important religious site was founded by a trio of monks from other monasteries, lured here by the isolation that suited their cloistered lifestyle. Over time the original site grew to incorporate locations on surrounding islands and the adjacent mainland. Within 200 years, the monastery had a vibrant economy featuring dairies and factories that produced such items as ceramics and bricks. The arts followed with woodcarving, lithography, engraving and icon painting. In addition, the area’s hothouses supplied not only the local demand for produce, herbs and medicinal plants but that of many Russian cities, as well. A temperate microclimate of warm southern air nurtured this farming environment.

Six hundred fifty miles from Moscow this prosperity enhanced Solovetsky’s importance, elevating its status to that of the region’s economic hub as well as its religious and cultural center, even its military headquarters. Just beyond the Arctic Circle, it was recognized as Russia’s most remote religious enclave. The sad story is that Solovetsky also became a prison and that’s the tale most often told.

The Long Arm of the Russian Revolution

With the changing tide of history, this successful enterprise suffered its demise as revolution raged across the nation in the early 20th century. Monastic life was abandoned in 1920 and in its place came the Solovki State Farm. As the Soviet Union’s first concentration camp, the entire complex was converted to a living hell for political prisoners and others. It literally became the poster child for the nation’s gulag system. Escape was almost impossible and some historians estimate that from 1923 to 1939 approximately 40,000 of the 80,000 prisoners condemned to Solovetsky perished at the hands of their guards. Others place the number much higher. Many were intellectuals, poets, academics, and those considered potentially dangerous individuals who were labeled “enemies of the people”. Their punishment was beyond cruel, and death often their only escape. For that reason, visitors are asked to pause, reflect, and remember the history that played out on this very soil. Curiously, it was the reality of WWII that prompted Solovetsky’s closure.

Following Lenin’s death in 1924, Solovetsky was ultimately transformed into a naval training base.  It became a museum in 1967 and, in 1990, was converted back into a religious site when the monks returned. Today, it is still a destination for pilgrims who arrive by small boat to pray, sing, and seek the blessings of the many priests who reside among the 1500 permanent residents. The handful of annual visitors, adventurous travelers like you, also encounter babushka’d women in long skirts, tending their gardens and going about their daily routines quite undisturbed by outsiders and their curious gazes. Meanwhile, the men spend long days laboring in the forests while the children are simply children in a world far kinder than it was not so very long ago.

Your Personal Journey

Like those before you your journey begins at the Holy Gate, the portal set into the Monastery’s massive stone walls all part of what is now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once inside, you can’t help but be impacted by the attempt to preserve the gentle nature of this holy site, a site tended by the faithful and landscaped into a rainbow of flowers. Turrets, watchtowers, cobblestone walkways, a protected courtyard, and the onion-domed Spaso-Prebrazhensky Cathedral complete the backdrop. Once inside the structure you’ll see scratchy film and faded photographs recording the desecration of religious artifacts and structures during Stalin’s reign of terror. Your guide will lead you through the brick hallways where prisoners met their fate and reveal to you staggering statistics that are beyond comprehension. Finally you’ll stand before the gilded icons that bring hope to those who pray this barbarity will never play out again.

Once away from the harsh reality yet palpable serenity of Solovetsky, consider reading Solzhenitsyn’s The Gulag Archipelago. It will fill in the stories where your imagination fails.

Dutch Harbor, Alaska

The Friendliest Catch

Dutch Harbor is famous for many things, not least of which is its role as the home port for the popular reality TV series “The Deadliest Catch”. But you might have to consider a new reality after your visit because some think this is also the home of “The Friendliest Batch” of people north of the Lower 48.

But Where Are We?

We are 800 miles southwest of Anchorage on the rugged Bering Sea coast of Unalaska, a spot in the Aleutian Islands chain known as the “Ring of Fire”.

Dutch Harbor sits smack in the heart of the North Pacific and Bering Sea fisheries. It’s home to fewer than 5,000 permanent residents, a number that explodes during the peak fishing season when as many as 6,000 to 10,000 additional workers arrive to roll up their sleeves and tackle the catch. Local leaders are happy to point out that, according to official reports, Dutch Harbor annually retains it’s title as winner of the nation’s “greatest quantity of fish landed” competition. In one season, professional fishermen in something like 400 boats bring in over 750 million pounds of seafood, worth close to $200 million. In their nets, hatches, hulls and cages are a variety of local specialties including herring, halibut, salmon and different types of crab. This mighty haul is handled by five seafood processing factories then shipped to countrymen down south as well as to other destinations worldwide.

Oh, back to “The Deadliest Catch.” If you’re lucky you might catch a glimpse of some of the show’s major players like Sig, Keith, Andy, Josh, John and Jake, perhaps even Wild Bill. Although this Discovery Channel hit has been in our homes for ten seasons now, these guys still appreciate their fame and enjoy being recognized.

A Port in the Storm

This little place has long attracted the world’s attention, even before the not-so-well-known film, “Dutch Harbor, Where The Sea Breaks Its Back.” The Aleuts, also known as Unanagan, staked their claim to this bountiful landscape many centuries ago. They were lured here by the fine fishing, which they did from nimble vessels called iqax fashioned from animal skins. According to some specialists, this may have been the prototype for all kayaks that followed. Iqax were fashioned from pieces of driftwood strapped side-by-side with strips of animal sinew then draped with the tanned hides of seals and sea lions. The entire vessel was boiled in seal oil to create a watertight boat capable of riding out some serious seas.

There was other game for these original islanders including sea otters and fur seals, which brought the Russians here in numbers seeking their pelts. That was in the mid-1700s not long before Captain James Cook sailed into the area. He wrote in his logbook, “the waters of Dutch Harbor are ice-free year-round and the spit provides a sheltered anchorage for vessels from the storms of the North Pacific and Bering Sea.”

Time marched on and the U.S. bought Alaska in 1867. Prospectors heading to the Nome Gold Rush provisioned here between 1899 and 1909. World War II left its dark mark as told in the local Museum of the Aleutians and at the Aleutian World War II National Historical Park.

A Look About

Two important landmarks are “must-see’s” for visitors to Dutch Harbor. First is the Church of the Holy Ascension, found at the western end of the little town. It’s bright roof and distinctive architecture hark back to its Russian Orthodox origins. Inside is a collection of fine icons and other memorabilia. More of the same is on view at the Museum, including Aleut artifacts, old photographs, Russian items and objects from the early days of fishing, as well as materiel gathered up from the days of World War II. You’ll learn that this was the only place on American soil, other than Pearl Harbor, that was bombed during the war. In response, American servicemen based here built a runway in only nine days so the U.S. could defend against further attacks.

Well, you’ll hear all about this as you wander about. Locals might even boast about “Trusty Tusty”. “Who’s that,” you ask? It’s not a person, it’s the MV Tustumena that bashes into the rough seas between here and Homer, Alaska serving as the trusty ferry for adventure-seekers and those commuting back and forth. Thankfully, you’ll be stepping back aboard your Crystal ship to tackle these waters in complete comfort.

Korsakov, Russia

A brief visit to Korsakov will only make you wish you’d re-read your Anton Chekhov. You might recall that this Russian born author and playwright (not to mention physician) wrote about Sakhalin after his 1890 stay in what was then a Czarist penal colony. You’ll hear much about his time here as you explore this remote outpost that’s about the same size as Maine. In fact, you can visit the Chekhov Museum, which guides tout as the world’s only such institute built to celebrate just one book.

The Sakhalin Islands

This off-the-beaten-track Russian port is found at the southern end of the Sakhalin Oblast on the edge of Anniva Bay. (As a point of clarification, “oblast” means “region” and this one is linked with the Kuril Islands to form the aforementioned Sakhalin Oblast.) In fact, Korsakov is so far off the beaten track that this island marks the far eastern end of Russia.

The distance between St. Petersburg, Russia and Korsakov is 4,161 miles. From Korsakov to Anchorage? About 1,966 miles. Seattle is only 3,398 miles away and Japan is a mere 25 miles away, across La Perouse Strait.

Well, you certainly will get the picture about the isolation of this place as you wander about. Perhaps it’s why the Russians used it as a penal colony—the out-of-sight, out-of-mind concept. After all, there was plenty of space for prisoners because Sakhalin, at 596 miles long, is Russia’s largest island.

The early prisoners sent here were considered quite hardened and were sentenced to forced labor. They lived along with their families in harsh conditions as described in the works of V.M. Doroshevich and Anton Chekhov.

For the record, the port was named after a Mikhail Korsakov who had been Governor General of Eastern Siberia. Today’s population hovers around the 30,000 mark, plus or minus.

Political Tug of War

But the Russians weren’t the only ones to view this place as an ideal dumping ground for undesirables, and an important bit of real estate. Japan, which had previously shared control over the territory with Russia, took back the island in its entirety after the Russian Revolution. That lasted until 1924. In 1945, the Soviet Union once again controlled the island’s southern half and set about repatriating all the Japanese from Sakhalin and the Kurils.

By the way, before the Russians handed over the town in 1905 in the back-and-forth tug-of-war between Japan and Russia, they burnt many wooden structure to the ground. That’s why, today, much of the city’s architecture is post-conflagration … paved roads, power poles, bricks-and-mortar. Unfortunately, the Japanese also burned down the old town before turning control back over to the Russians following the end of WWII. In the flames were memorials, a Shinto shrine, and other important landmarks. Most of the Japanese were repatriated along with many of the Koreans who’d been brought by the Russians as slave laborers, though some of their descendants still reside in the area.

Remembering Chekhov

For those who’ve forgotten, Anton Pavlovich Chekhov was born in 1860 and became one of history’s most celebrated authors, especially of short stories. He won the Pushkin Prize in 1887 for At Dusk (V Sumerkakh), a collection of short stories.

Meanwhile, he feared he’d been stricken with tuberculosis, a disease that took his brother’s life not long after Chekhov’s diagnosis. Perhaps this is what drove him to endure a miserable journey from Moscow to the Russian Far East and to Sakhalin Island. While there, the author passed months with convicts and others who’d suffered under the Russian penal system. They’d endured beatings and depravation all within the presence of their young children who were forced to live under the same labor-camp conditions. Their stories, and more, were woven into several of his works including “Ostrov Sakhalin” that found its way to the public eye in 1893 and 1894. While cold and stale in its reporting, the book expresses his position that even prisoners were worthy of humane conditions and treatment. In his more expressive work, “The Murder”, Chekhov vents his feelings about what he considered the “Hell of Sakhalin.” All is then revealed in his exposé “The Island of Sakhalin.”

Well, on a lighter note, there’s always great food. Since this island is 85% covered with taiga forest, there’s usually plenty of tasty game and yummy berries on offer. The surrounding seas are among the country’s richest fishing grounds along with the 60,000 rivers and creeks that lace through the countryside. Salmon and seafood reign supreme. Add some glorious black caviar and some balalaika music and you have a proper meal waiting for you. Don’t forget the blinis with some luscious homemade blackberry jam on top.

Kochi, Japan

Revolutionary and Pilgrim, Seafood and Paper

Of Japan’s four main islands, Shikoku is the most lightly populated as well as the smallest.  Found to the east of Kyushu Island just south of Honshu Island, it measures slightly over 7,200 square miles. Shikoku sits on the Seto Inland Sea almost wrapped in the embrace of Kyushu and Honshu Islands with the Pacific Ocean at its eastern flank.  And, it was this remoteness that made it an ideal place for political prisoners as well as spiritual leaders, hence a mixed bag of historical figures set in a dramatic, mountainous backdrop.

Revolutionary and Pilgrim

Sakamoto Ryoma is a name you’ll hear as you explore Kochi.  Born here in 1835 when it was called Tosa, Ryoma fled at the age of 28 without sanctioned authority from the officials, which was an offense in those days.  His goal was to convince warring factions to unite and rise up against the feudal military government of the shôgun. They did so and succeeded in creating an “Eight-Point Program” that installed the framework for a modernized Japan.  The emperor was ultimately given back his power in what was described as a bloodless coup.  These events are known as the Meiji Restoration of 1868.  Ryoma is recognized as an important revolutionary figure that spearheaded the demise of this 700-year feudal government, creating a new legal structure and parliamentary system as well as a diplomatic office.

Sadly, Sakamoto Ryoma was assassinated in Kyoto only one month later.  He died at the age of 33 yet his story lives on in the Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum found on the grounds of the Urado Castle Park in Katsurahama.  And note that Ryoma is so respected by his fellow countrymen that they refer to him by his first name only.  An impressive statue of Ryoma is an important highlight for most Kochi visitors.

Another important figure born on Shikoku Island is Kōbō Daishi (who was originally named Kukai) in 774.  He became one of Japan’s most famous citizens.  He was a trusted advisor to the emperor.  He mastered the art of calligraphy and is revered as one of the best three calligraphers ever to have lived, even introducing Japan to an innovative style of calligraphy.  He was a scholar, educator, poet and a priest.  It’s noted he also engineered dams.  And, at a young age, he began to seek “the truth” through Buddhism, eventually casting off his worldly possessions and retreating to the mountains.

Today, Kōbō Daishi is respected much like a saint and believers from around the world come to this island on pilgrimages.  Few actually walk the entire 1,400-kilometer route where the Great Master Daishi walked visiting all 108 temples and shrines.  Others prefer the 1,100-kilometer route to 88 main pilgrimage temples.  As they walk they recite the pilgrim’s motto, which is “Dogyō Ninin” (We Two, Traveling Together) seeking the path to nirvana.  It’s estimated 200,000 make some portion of this journey each year.  Some come just to visit the Cape Muroto cave where it’s said this monk gained enlightenment.

Seafood and Paper

The Japanese people love fish and Kochi is famous for a specific fish dish called katsuo no tataki.  Fresh skipjack tuna, also known as bonito, is lightly broiled then sliced and served with soya sauce-laced ginger and garlic dressed with fresh spring onions all with a splash of citrus and vinegar.  At isakaya eateries—casual places where locals drink and dine—this favorite is usually found on their menus.

Proper menus in formal restaurants, however, are sometimes handwritten on hand-made washi paper crafted locally.  The term “washi” means … “Japanese (wa) paper (shi).  It’s believed that Buddhist monks introduced the art of papermaking into Japan in 610 AD.  Until then, it was perfected by the Chinese and was not introduced to the Europeans until the 13th century.  And it’s claimed that some 100,000 families were crafting paper by hand in the late 1800s.  Mechanization and modernization have impacted this industry and few families today even engage in the practice.  Those who do still use the inner barks of a trio of indigenous plants … the delicate gampi, the strong kozo (paper mulberry), and the soft mitsumata that lends a graceful element to the paper.  The complicated process produces paper that is excellent for bookbinding, printing, umbrellas and origami, even paper jewelry.

And if all this isn’t enough for your travel journal, discover the story of a 14 year-old local boy named Nakahama “John” Manjiro who went to sea to help support his family following his father’s death.  Shipwrecked then rescued by a New Bedford whaler, the “John Howland” captained by William Whitfield, the boy sailed to Fairhaven in 1843 where he learned to read, write, even navigate.  After a stint in the California goldfields and time in Hawaii, he and former shipmates returned to Japan where he was arrested.  The Japanese government then recognized him as an important bridge to the west. He lectured on American democracy and even influenced Sakamoto Ryoma.  President Coolidge said of Manjiro’s return to Japan, “it was as if America had sent its first ambassador.”

Fernando Botero

Colombia’s Famous Artist

“Man needs spiritual expression and nourishing… even in the prehistoric era, people would scrawl pictures of bison on the walls of caves.”

So said Fernando Botero whose paintings aren’t scrawled on the walls of dank, dark caves but instead hang in the properly-lighted galleries of world-renowned museums and private collections all around the world.  His distinctive statues grace other galleries, plazas, and parks from one country to the next. These iconic pieces of art have a completely unique style that is immediately recognizable for its “smooth inflated shapes” and distorted scale.  This is a theme that has been present throughout Botero’s creative life and this talent has served him well making him one of the most important artists of our time.

Early Life

It was in the Colombian city of Medellin that Fernando Botero came into this world on April 19, 1932, his full name being Fernando Botero Angulo. When still only a child he showed his artistic gift, even submitting illustrations to El Colombiano, the Medellin newspaper. This was an important first step because his earnings gave him the funds to finance his art studies.  Initially Botero had dreamed of becoming a matador and was beginning formal training before switching his interest to art.

At age 16, he enjoyed the first exhibition of his work.  Prior to his 20th birthday, Botero relocated to Bogotá where he gained notoriety with his first one-man show that was proudly displayed at the Leo Matiz Gallery.  Shortly thereafter, the artist won Second Prize at Bogota’s National Salon. His inspiration, it’s claimed, came from Spanish colonial art as well as pre-Colombian works.  Their distinctive looks gave him the artistic fodder, the inspiration, for his own work.  So, too, Diego Rivera’s murals with their political themes. He was the Mexican painter and muralist whose art depicted his nation’s native and working class peoples. In addition to Diego Rivera, Botero drew inspiration from the 17th-century Spanish painter Diego Velázquez and Spanish romantic painter and printmaker Francisco de Goya.

Botero visited the European continent with the purpose of viewing the Old Masters’ works displayed in museums in France, Spain, and Italy. He soon began his studies in earnest at the San Fernando Academy in Madrid as well as the Academy of San Marcos in Florence.  Per the Encyclopedia Britannica, during his schooling in Madrid, Botero copied paintings that were displayed in the famous Prado Museum as a way to earn his livelihood.

Then, at the age of 24, the artist presented his subject’s first inflated profile to the world.  It was entitled Still Life With Mandolin.  Not long after, he furthered his reputation as an important artist by winning top honors at Bogota’s National Salon, the coveted prize that had eluded him a few years earlier.

An International Journey

Not yet in his 30s, Botero moved to New York. The artist enjoyed excellent reviews there while not experiencing the same acceptance in other major art markets. Within one year, his painting entitled Mona Lisa, Age Twelve was purchased by New York’s Museum of Modern Art. Botero’s style evolved further during his time in New York where he introduced a much smoother texture to his images.  After a dozen or so years, the artist was drawn back to the European continent where he settled in Paris. He passed the time studying the masters on view at the Louvre. At this point in his life he continued his painting but started creating sculptures adding this three-dimension format to his repertoire.  Many of those pieces were presented to a larger audience worldwide as open-air exhibits. The artist continued to expand on his themes of a political nature with many important representations of high-ranking people in power.

Assessment and Accolades

Art historians suggest Botero’s fleshy, rotund figures speak to the artist’s particular interest in Latin-American folk art. As well, they point to the rather bold colors and flat representation in his paintings that also seemed to have drawn inspiration from folk art. They suggest that, ultimately, Botero introduced a level of political satire into his paintings with images of important figures as he saw them.

This very handsome, silver-hair man is considered to be one of Latin America’s most admired artists with his style called “Boterism.” There are several books outlining the life and success of Fernando Botero as well as two films, Botero: Four Seasons and The Rotund World of Fernando Botero. In 2012, Fernando Botero was the proud recipient of the International Sculpture Center’s Lifetime Achievement in Contemporary Sculpture award.

Fernando Botero is quoted as saying; “An artist is attracted to certain kinds of form without knowing why.  You adopt a position intuitively; only later do you attempt to rationalize or even justify it.”

As you stroll the streets of Colombian cities, you’ll pass many shops selling reproductions of Botero’s famous pieces.  If you speak to one of the locals you’ll discover that many citizens, as well as art historians worldwide, consider Fernando Botero to be the most Colombian of all Colombian artists.  His presence across the land would suggest that is true.

Nha Trang, Vietnam

It’s all About the Beach

Well, not totally because a lot of history played out here but many of today’s travelers come to Nha Trang mainly for the sun, the sand, the sea, and the scene. Some spend their entire holiday right here, hunkered down in the golden-sand shade of a grass umbrella while others visit important destinations like Ho Chi Minh City, some 200 miles away. It’s a great jumping-off point because Nha Trang lies right on the country’s central coast. Perhaps that’s why the players of the Champa Dynasty selected it as the center of their power. During this period it was called Kauthara.

Power players and more call Nha Trang home today as the population grows at an uncountable rate annually. The city is also the capital of the Khánh Hòa Province. Tourism is a hot industry and many people come to participate in its growth. Hotels and entertainment venues line the three-mile-long crescent-shaped beach that nestles up against a backdrop of hills and rocky outcroppings. Some estimates are that the population, at the moment, is hovering near the half-million mark with continued growth projected for the near future. And this number doesn’t even count the backpackers, ship passengers, vacation package travelers and the very fashionable jet-abouts who spend time in the luxury resorts.

Among these visitors are American history buffs, as well as Vietnam veterans, who remember that neighboring My Keah Beach was once known as China Beach, a famous recreational base for the U.S. military during the Vietnam War.

Time to Explore

Travelers must plan their time wisely because there is much to see, not so much time to see it in, and traffic can be an issue when trying to move about and make deadlines. Nonetheless, you’ve come halfway around the world to be here so select those sites that suit your interests. Among them is the Ponagar Pagoda (also spelled Po Nagar). It’s an important destination dating back to the 2nd-century AD, though references vary widely on this with same marking 781 A.D. as an important date in the construction of the complex. The brick temple rises above the sea, on Mt. Cu Lao and draws both ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists who come to worship and make offerings. As the Cham people ruled the country for about ten centuries, their temples and architectural style is visible across the land. Some experts believe their roots are based in Indian Buddhism; hence some design consistencies between Po Nagar and Angkor Wat, in Cambodia. The temple features views of the surrounding area and the Cai River. Should you choose to visit, you will probably be asked to remove your shoes.

Another place of note is the Long Son Pagoda, built in 1886 just at the base of Trai Truy Mountain. After a powerful cyclone in 1900, the pagoda was actually relocated. Here, you’ll find a towering white Buddha figure up a climb of 250 steps. Standing 70 feet tall, the statue keeps a watchful eye on the surrounding area.

One chapter of this country’s important history is tied to the French. Their influence is felt in the cuisine, the lifestyle, the architecture and the language. The Nha Tho Nui Cathedral is known by many names such as the Stone Cathedral, King Cathedral, Nha Trang Church, Nui (Mountain) Church or Sga Sau Church. Whatever you call it, know its origins date back to a priest named Louis Vallet and it features stained glass windows, a bell tower and a graceful exterior.

Other Places to See

Many cities revolve around bustling marketplaces and Nha Trang’s market is one such venue. Among the many curiosities on offer include an exotic display of fruits and vegetables unfamiliar to most of us.  In addition, there will be a variety of fresh seafood plucked from the sea, often that very morning. Hand-embroidered silk clothing, conical hats (also known as non la leaf hats), ao dai, the tradition national costume, sand pictures, wooden clogs called gyoc moc, and a range of musical instruments that have been played in this countryside for generations. Bamboo flutes are fun and easy to pack, certainly much easier than the conical hat.

Before it’s time to leave Nha Trang behind, reflect on the events of the past that occurred here yet affected many nations thousands of miles away. Pause, remember, but do engage the people of Nha Trang, especially the young who are bent on making the best lives for themselves that they can. See their elders fishing at the Xom Bong pier perhaps also thinking of the past yet looking to the future. This is an historic city with a vibrant future and you are witness to it all.

Special note:  There are several spellings for many sites. Ask someone to write in Vietnamese the name of the place you wish to visit if you are sightseeing independently. Additionally, allow extra time to move about, as traffic can be quite heavy.