Sanya, China

China’s Deep South 

Imagine that the entire nation of China was shaped like a giant, puffy potsticker with the rounded part on the bottom. Hainan Island would be a drop of soy sauce dripping off the very, very bottom. Or, a drip of soy sauce dropping off the very, very bottom. This island is to China what the Florida Keys are to the U.S. In fact, Hainan Island is so far south that it juts out into Sanya Bay and is found directly across the Gulf of Tonkin from Vietnam. And that makes for some very interesting isolation in many ways. Even the translation of the name Sanya says it all. It means, “the end of the sky and ocean” and “the end of the earth.” Well, not really but for some that, indeed, was the truth. For you, however, it’s just another notch in your see-the-world belt. And, for the record according to the People’s Republic of China, Hainan is China’s second largest island after Taiwan. According to others, Taiwan is officially known as the Republic of China and is a sovereign state. Let’s not debate that here. 

Oriental Hawaii 

Some tourism enthusiasts tout Sanya as the “Oriental Hawaii.” There’s truth to that. They both are approximately the same distance north of the Equator. In addition to being a recognized for its foreign import and export activity, it also offers a leisure life associated with a coastline dotted with attractive harbors and nice beaches. More importantly, a comfortable climate for the majority of the year is a magnet for those seeking sun and surf and a balmy climate as a backdrop. Visitors usually include a stop at the Nanshan Temple to gaze upon the Jade Kwan-yin Statue, covered in 221 pounds of gold and silver plus 120 carats of South African diamonds. Or, they partake in all the usual seaside activities or elect to do nothing more than laze about under a fringed umbrella with a gracious attendant offering food and drink on an international standard. As with other bustling seaside resorts, the fresh seafood is presented daily along with a sampling of tropical fruits. Oh, and if you like beach volleyball you’ll probably find a game somewhere. This is where the national team trains.     

The Many Faces of China 

Did you know that China is home to 56 different ethnic groups? Of course, the Han Chinese are the largest group by a long shot with more than 91% of the entire Chinese population. That leaves less than 9% for the other 55 groups. And please note that this vast nation with its enormous population has lots of grey areas. Ethnicity is subject to interpretation by different experts as well as official bodies, not to mention by the people themselves. Presented here is a basis for further review and study should you wish. Also note, we leave aside for another day the discussion about Tibet and its piece in this population puzzle. We’ll also leave aside the discussion about others groups claiming a distinct ethno-national identity but haven’t as yet received it. Having said all that, know there is some consensus that the people closely associated with this area are the Li, the Miao, the Chiyou and the Utsuls. 

The Li people call Hainan Island home and count more than one million in their group. It’s claimed that they had no written script until 1957 and speak a distinct language, though many speak Chinese, as well. Their traditional garb for the women include long, tight skirts and blouses without buttons. A few of the women still engage in the practice of tattooing their faces. Their hair is worn pulled back and into a bun that’s held in place with bone hairpins. As part of their dress, the women adore themselves with silver jewelry. For a type of make-up, the women chew a mixture of shell ashes, something called arica, and leaves. This concoction stains the women’s lips a reddish color. Many family members live together in thatched bamboo houses. Their diet consists of meat and rice and they practice herbal medicine very effectively. 

The Miao people number nearly nine million though they’re scattered about. Their traditional costumes are richly decorated with silver jewelry and headgear, as well as intricate embroidery. This needlework talent is passed from generation to generation with young girls being very proficient by the time the hit their teens. This is such a large group that their traditional dress varies from region to region but is always distinctly colorful and decorative. 

The Chiyou tribe has a complicated history and is debated endlessly. Nonetheless, their influence is here as well. So, too, that of the Utsuls who number approximately 5,000. In this country, they are considered an “undistinguished ethnic group”. An important discussion swirls around their origin. Were their ancestors Muslims who arrived here from Central Asia? Or, were they Cham refugees from what is known now as southern Vietnam? Language is key here to the scientists who study the migration of people, their origins, their ancestry, and their culture. And, with most studies, the experts aren’t in agreement. It gets rather controversial and DNA even plays a role in the discussions and discovery. Suffice it to say here, this is a culturally diverse area that you’ve come upon with a rich history and even richer heritage. Perhaps a local person can share a cup of tea with you and give you their version of the story. And, have them check their watch to make sure you get back to the ship on time. Beach traffic can be busy. 

Juju Island, South Korea

Something For Everyone 

You’re late for your hair appointment and if you don’t get there now Monsieur Jacques will give you the stink eye, the cold shoulder, tepid ginger tea and make your hair purple. You can’t find the car keys. Broke a nail on the fridge door trying to retrieve a cold bottle of Voss only to find out someone pinched the last one. Phone rings. Your best friend Dot’s crying over something you said at the ladies luncheon that she took totally the wrong way. School principal calls next. Johnny just got caught spray-painting graffiti on the gym wall, something about your neighbor’s cat. Hubby rings. There’ll be four extra for dinner. Tonight. 

So you’ve had a bad day. 

But when you think you’ve had a bad day, do some Zen breathing and remember the women of Jeju. 

Every Fish Tank Has a Silver Lining 

Traditionally, Haenyeo women are Jeju’s fisherwomen who free dive 60 feet down, no scuba tanks for these ladies, to gather shellfish and sea weed as have generations of women before them. That story follows. But, just know that as of now the times they are a changing. 

According to the Jeju Provisional Government and the Jeju Samda Museum, though Haenyo women have always been respected for their strength and courage, the practice is dying out as local women are now more educated and able to find work that is not nearly as life threatening. Dangers do lurk below in the form of sharks and other hazards and the veteran divers simply don’t want their daughters to enter this profession. As officials noted in their 2005 stats, of the 5,406 women divers 65.8 % are over 60, only 2% are under 30. 

As they sit in their “bulteok” dressing rooms, today’s women divers discuss everything from harvesting seaweed to pricing their catch. In fact, their seating arrangement around the bonfire indicates their rank within this extraordinary matriarchal community that’s kinda like the Yaya Sisterhood and their divine secrets but with wet hair. Once suited up and in the chilling water, they dive for octopus, conch, abalone and sea urchins returning to the seabed over and over during five-hour shifts. Over the years, the women have found other dive sites in Korea, and as far away as Japan, China and even the Russian seaport of Vladivostok. 

At the industry’s peak, there were some 30,000 female divers on this tiny island alone. It all started when the male divers were assessed a tax so women took up the profession. 

Hear their tales of courage, discover their customs, and learn about the specialized gear that includes picks and rakes, floats called taewaks, and swimming goggles known as eyes. Some say the Haenyeo can hold their breath for up to 10 minutes, though 2-3 minutes is more the norm. When they reach the surface, they make a whistling sound to expel carbon dioxide and take in fresh oxygen. 

Today, the women do have better working conditions. They no longer have to till the fields before and after their midday dives. The women are entitled to proper working conditions and income, time off for health reasons, reduced licensing fees, etc. They’re also entitled to operate their own restaurants where they serve their catch, bringing them significant additional income. These smart ladies are now revered as the island’s true feminists. They are the Haenyo, the Korean Grandmother Divers and, to some, even mermaids.

Other Things to Discover 

Jeju Island is 53 miles south of mainland South Korea. Though close enough for contact with the rest of the country, the Jeju people live rather independent lives and even speak a distinct dialect. If you’re confused, just know Jeju was once known as Cheju and is the capital of the entire island of Jejudo. This island, only 25 miles wide and 45 miles long, is popular with vacationing Koreans, honeymooners and others. They come to explore the famous lava tubes and Buddhist temples including Yateheonsa with its large bell. They also find waterfalls like the 23-meter one at Seogwipo known as Jeongbang Falls suitable for photos and a swim, plus some fine beaches and thermal pools. There’s a teddy bear museum as well as several sex museums. So you see, Jeju offers something for everyone, including shoppers. 

Visitors to the island usually take home some traditional fabrics dyed to a stunning color with persimmon juice, or jewelry fashioned from the local black coral. The real adventurers will sample the famous Korean dish of fermented cabbage known as gimchi, or kimchee, sometimes served with a sweet potato wine called Soju. You simply can’t find these specialties at your local hometown eatery, now can you?

Armed with all this knowledge and insight into a destination that’s away from the norm for Western travelers, you have the rare opportunity to experience another side of South Korea. That alone should impress the armchair travelers back home who come along with you on your magic carpet ride. They’ll thank you for the trip. 

Japanese Art

A Study of the Sublime 

A small, smooth hand mimics the refined yet tired movements of his elder. With an almost awkward attempt at precision, the student emulates the master drawing from him the wisdom of the ages. From one generation to the next passes a technique, a style, a craft, an art that has been coveted since times past by Japanese society.

Throughout the land, in airy studios and drafty workshops, wise artists nurture their talented pupils. Each senses an urgency to keep alive that glorious culture that defines Japan as a living treasury. 

Who Are These Artists? 

Governments around the world are faced with bottom lines and budget cuts yet Japan is one nation that still recognizes the need to nurture its traditional art forms. “Holders of Important Intangible Cultural Properties” are artists identified as living national treasures and provided for so they may focus their energies exclusively on their masterpieces.           

The concept of caring for those artists who perpetuate the traditional arts is reputed to have been the scheme of General Douglas MacArthur, the American five-star general who commanded the post-war operation in Japan. This military man recognized the tragic loss of fine examples of many art forms through the indiscriminate hands of war. It is said that MacArthur encouraged Japanese authorities to recognize, reward, and subsidize those artists who were the masters of their varied crafts, from drama to doll making. 

The Living Arts 

Kabuki is one of a handful of Japanese dramatic presentations. Unlike No (or Noh) performances that are often tragic, Kabuki is more musical and lively. Both, however, feature only male actors known as onnatgata. For more than 300 years, women were forbidden to portray Kabuki characters as the government had grown weary of jealous fans who aggressively vied for these actresses’ affection. The Treasury of Loyal Retainers is a popular Kabuki play. 

Tattooing is an ancient Japanese art form as well, but it uses the human body as a canvas. Many of these figures are reminiscent of ancient woodcuts. As early as the third century B.C., both Japanese men and women were tattooed on their faces as well as their bodies for decoration and for tribal identification. In recent times, this practice has been associated with the yakuza—the Japanese underworld—and people sporting tattoos are often denied entry into public places.

Fabrics and Dolls 

Throughout time, Japanese kimonos remained virtually unchanged. What did evolve, however, were the colors and patterns used in these garments. Some 1,200 years ago, weavers were already employing batik, tie-dye and stencils to decorate their fabrics. Gold and silver threads later enhanced these designs. The obi sashes became increasingly more elaborate. Some master weavers, even today, use only their sculpted fingernails to weave the delicate silk threads of these sashes. These artists are known as “fingernail weavers.” Samples of these delicate fabrics can be found on traditional Japanese dolls sculpted from kiri wood. 

Fashioned With Fire 

An expert swordsmith huddles before a blazing fire. With temperatures reaching a blistering 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit, he creates a highly polished and richly decorated sword that would serve a samurai admirably. His craft evolved from that of Chinese swordsmiths of 2,000 years ago. 

Meanwhile, while squatting on an earthen floor, an iron molder creates magic where once there was none. From rough, unpolished iron his powerful hands fabricate such pieces as jewelry, dotaku bells, and traditional tea kettles that are used during formal tea ceremonies. 

And Japanese yaki porcelains and ceramics, as fragile as egg shells, are glorious in their exquisite simplicity.  

Flowers and Tea 

Ikebana is the Japanese art of floral arranging. Originally, only rulers enjoyed these colorful and delicate masterpieces. Slowly, over time, this art form was introduced into the quiet corners of small Japanese homes, as were bonsai’s. Though these diminutive trees can live for hundreds of years, they seldom grow taller than two feet for they have been expertly pruned throughout their long life. 

Japan’s tea ceremony is rich with pageantry and protocol. One must study for some time to master the discreet nuances of this ritual including the placement of the guests, the appropriate topics of conversation, and the acceptable manners for all involved. Tea masters provide this instruction at certain schools throughout the land. 

Fellow nations would be wise to examine Japan’s rich cultural heritage and the country’s desire to preserve it as well as its celebrated masters. A lost art is an irreversible tragedy. 

Topolobampo, Mexico

To-po-lo-bam-po. Sounds like a Richie Valens’ hit from 1958? Well, it’s not. Nor is it Rick Bayless’ famous Chicago eatery. It is, in fact, the small but lively Mexican port town tucked up into the convoluted shoreline of the state of Sinaloa lapped by the tepid waters of the Gulf of California. Her six thousand, give or take, inhabitants savor warm summer sun, fish fresh from the sea, and an easy lifestyle that drops their blood pressure several points.

So Why Are We Here?

Well, most everyone comes to Topolobampo to journey inland to Copper Canyon. In Spanish, it’s called, “Barranca del Cobre” and isn’t really just one canyon but a series of 20 carved by the powerful forces of time and six mighty rivers. Some travelers note the similarity to Arizona’s Grand Canyon, and they are right. But proud locals point out that the entire region measures seven times greater than that of the Grand Canyon, so it is whopping big. Even UNESCO identified it as one of their coveted World Heritage Sites, which brings us to the subject of “ChePe” -- not to be confused with that Hollywood personality who keeps wiggling, saying “Koochi Koochi.”

The Train That Could

“ChePe” is short for the “Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad.” It, however, is not short. It runs 400 miles from Chihuahua to Los Mochis smack through Copper Canyon. Even jaded travelers exclaim that this tops the list of America’s most spectacular railroad stretches as well as one of the world’s top ten in the same category.

The entire route traverses more than three-dozen bridges, some 86 tunnels, endless canyons and grab-the-camera-honey vistas. All this was the hair-brain idea of some curious folks from New Harmony, Indiana known as the Utopia Socialist Colony. Their leader Albert Kinsey Owen was bent, so to speak, on creating a utopian socialist community and convinced General Manuel Gonzales, Mexico’s President in 1880, that he needed the railroad to achieve this goal. Well, that all went by the wayside because the task was far too daunting. So, it was not until 1961 that the final stake was driven into the track signaling the train was now ready to leave the station.

The Tarahumara

If you know America’s indigenous peoples, then you’re well aware of the Tarahumara. Also called Raramuri (the two names are somewhat interchangeable), they’re found scattered about Mexico’s northern region. Long before the Spaniards arrived to search for gold and silver, the Tarahumara were widespread. As conditions worsened for them under Spanish rule in the 16th century, they took refuge in Copper Canyon for the rugged landscape offered them shelter. Even today, many still live in caves, beneath rock outcroppings on cliffs, or in modest yet more modern cabins.

These settlements were and are separated by inhospitable terrain. So, long before cell phones and texting, the only way villagers could communicate with the outside world was by messenger. These darn fast, healthy specimen could literally run for days and it was not uncommon for one such “foot runner” to cover as much as 435 miles in one go. That’s about 16.5 marathons AT ONCE !! Barefoot !! Before Gatorade !! Well, they did carbo-load with lots of corn beer and sometimes kick a ball along for enjoyment so it wasn’t all that bad. The scary part, however, was dodging Mexican wolves and cougars that prowled about in the dark even though Raramuri hunted their prey by chasing them till exhaustion.

Some experts believe the word “Raramuri” actually means “those who run fast.” Think Macy’s the day after Thanksgiving. Other experts explain these runners honed their skills not by clomping along in sneakers like us but rather by using something called a “toe strike” (not gout, silly) that’s easier on the muscles and joints and lets the runner keep on going long after we week-end jocks would be calling a taxi.

Even today many of the 60,000 Raramuri still practice traditional customs by donning colorful clothing, herding livestock from pasture to pasture, cooking familiar dishes like beans and corn, practicing their traditional animism religion mixed with Christianity, and speaking the Tarahumara dialect of their forefathers along with Spanish.

The Original Z

An option for those unable to travel the ChePe Railroad (we call the ChePe Choo Choo) is Zorro. Yes, remember “the mark of the Z”? Supposedly, that was the signature of Don Diego de la Vega reputed to be the true Zorro. A visit to his 1880s mansion Hotel Posado del Hidalgo in the town of El Fuente will fill in the blanks of this gentleman’s history. Learn the identity of the man behind the black mask and really tight pants who sought to right all wrongs, make women swoon, and slice away at gnarly villains. 

Puerto Limón, Costa Rica

Caribbean Costa Rica

“Costa Rica is considered unique in Central America; prosperity has made it dull … What is remarkable is its secularity. I was not prepared for this … The Cost Rican’s dislike of dictators had made him intolerant of priests. Luck and ingenuity had made the country prosperous, and it was small and self-contained enough to remain so.” –Paul Theroux, The Old Patagonian Express, 1979.

Well, in addition to luck and ingenuity, the people of Costa Rica are blessed with a country that is flanked by both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. In addition, there are some very productive commodities that find their way from Costa Rica to nations around the world, but more on that later. Just for now, let’s look at just one page of history about the port we’re soon to visit.

Columbus Slept Here

With a history dating back some 500 years, you knew Christopher Columbus had to stop on by. It’s claimed by historians that, yes, the Great Navigator made landfall in what’s now Costa Rica and he was the first European to do so. That was on September 18th, 1502. Local Carib Indians, donning their golden jewelry, greeted Columbus and his men by paddling out to their anchored vessel. Subsequent to this time, the name “Costa Rica” was born in honor of the golden bands adorning the Indians’ ears and noses. The translation means, of course, Rich Coast.

The indigenous people never numbered more than a few hundred thousand. Then, with the Spanish introduction of certain diseases such as smallpox, the population was nearly wiped out. True to practice, the Spaniards introduced slaves from Africa. According to authorities, there are approximately 70,000 descendants from these slaves living in Costa Rica today. On the other hand, a mere 1% can trace their heritage to the indigenous people. Virtually everyone else is identified as “white” and the descendants of the Spanish settlers who are called Ticos.

“What’s A Sloth, Mommy?”

“Well, Bree, it’s rather like a …, hmm, well sort of a …., hmm. Ask your father.” Little Bree dashes off to Dadipedia who himself is stumped by the question. In order to avoid like embarrassment, just continue reading. A sloth is a sort of monkey-looking, slow-as-molasses hairball that hangs upside all day for some unknown reason. And, he lives in Costa Rica as well as other Central and South American jungles. But here’s an interesting fact. His metabolism is so slow it can take up to 30 days for him to simply digest his dinner of, what, leaves. It screams Metamucil. You’d think he’d be getting enough roughage with his vegetarian diet. Sloths also have weird hair that’s grooved so water is directed away from his furry body. The strangest thing of all, though, is that they’re so slow moving that an algae grows in their groovy fur to further enhance their camouflage. You actually could probably say that moss does grow on their backsides. Isn’t that odd?

More Of Mother Nature’s Curiosities

Toucans. Costa Rica has toucans. They’re the ones that look like you could change a tire with their beaks, or bills as they prefer to call them. Some bills can reach more than seven inches in length. Evidently it’s pretty popular with the ladies. A toucan’s call sounds just like a frog so if you think you hear a frog, look up and maybe you’ll see a toucan.   

Costa Rica is also home to scarlet macaws. They’re supersized parrots, in fact the world’s largest measuring a whopping 33 inches beak to tail. You should not try to measure one because they’re beaks are so strong they can crack a hard nut.

And, then, there’s the howler monkey. He’s the New World’s biggest monkey. These fellows are so loud, hence the name, that when they give it a good go they can be heard three miles away. Thankfully they have prehensile tail that allows them to hang around because they prefer staying in the treetops and come down from their perch quite rarely. They live in “troops” so keep an eye and ear open for a troop of howlers. They sound like a car with bad breaks in a sandstorm.

Where to find some of these creatures? Well, if you’re lucky you might see a sloth up a tree in town. They’re hard to spot because of their algae camo get-up.

A Page From The History Books

At one time, coffee was an important product grown in Costa Rica. It developed as a major export with shipments headed toward Europe. The problem was the port for Europe was on the Pacific Ocean and the coffee was grown in the Central Plateau. Oxcarts were used to transport the aromatic beans. But, a decision was made to develop a port on the Atlantic coast, for obvious reasons, and that required a pool of laborers. The government engaged Minor C. Keith, an America entrepreneur, to build the railroad to Limón, thus the Caribbean. This railroad was finished in 1890 and the labor pool was comprised of Chinese, Jamaicans, Italians, and prisoners from the US.

Well, now you can write your own chapter in your personal history book after your visit to Costa Rica and Puerto Limón. Give it a go.

Puerto Chiapas, Mexico

Mi Café, Su Café

“In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running.” --Jeff Bezos

For caffeine addicts, this port of call will amount to a pilgrimage. Of the world’s premier coffees, Mexican Arabica is considered among the elite beans. And you are now at its source. The state of Chiapas exists almost exclusively for the cultivation, harvesting and exporting of this glorious nectar of the Starbucks generation. Most of the modern history of Chiapas revolves around the politics of coffee. And, as with so many of the world’s most desirable commodities, that history is written with heroism and hard work, mayhem even murder. A handful have prospered while others have suffered, and only recently has the coffee wealth begun to bring a better life to the very people on whose backs the industry has been built.

“I believe humans get a lot done, not because we're smart, but because we have thumbs so we can make coffee.” –Flash Rosenberg

Chiapas is the most southern of the 31 states of Mexico. To the east is Guatemala, to the south the Pacific Ocean. The lowland areas have a climate supporting what used to be a massive rainforest, most of which has given way to agricultural development. In the uplands between parallel mountain ranges, temperate, foggy conditions have resulted in “cloud forests” like those of the protected El Triunfo Biosphere, and an ideal climate for the plantations that produce what are arguably Mexico’s finest coffee beans.

The history of this region is not unlike the rest of Mexico and Central America. There is evidence of civilization dating from 1400 BC with the city of Palenque being founded by the Mayans around 600 BC. The Spanish arrived in the early 16th century and Chiapas was actually administered as part of the Kingdom of Guatemala. When Mexico and Central America divided during the 19th century, the state of Chiapas was eventually annexed by Mexico.

“If it weren't for the coffee, I'd have no identifiable personality whatsoever.”--David Letterman

The gleaming new port of Chiapas, inaugurated in 2005 by former President Vincente Fox, belies the fact that much of the state is populated by hard working, rural farmers. About one quarter are of Mayan decent. In 1994, a political activist group known as the Zapatistas began setting up autonomous municipalities dedicated to the rights of these largely disenfranchised communities. A number of them now support agricultural cooperatives that allow small coffee growers to compete with the larger plantations, many of which are owned by the descendents of European families. Naturally, this movement has created some friction with the central government but remains dedicated to achieving its goals through political means.

“I bought a decaffeinated coffee table, you can’t even see the difference.” --Author Unknown

Tapachula is the municipality that encompasses the suburb of Puerto Chiapas. Because of the thriving coffee and banana trade, the city has the highest GDP per capita in Mexico, which puts it in sharp contrast to the rest of the state. During the coffee boom, a number of German families migrated to the area and assembled large plantations known as “fincas”. Hamburgo, Bremen and Germania are still in the hands of those dedicated, extended families.

Railroad construction brought Latin America’s first Asian immigrants to Tapachula so the Japanese and Chinese have left their mark on the architecture as well as the cuisine. Surprisingly, you may find it easier to get good miso soup or Kung Pao Chicken than a tasty burrito.

Modern migration has written a sadder tale as Tapachula is a point from which many undocumented people from Central America begin their long and dangerous trek north. A walk through Tapachula will feature the colonial-era Temple of San Agustin, the Archaeological Museum, the nearby pyramids of Izapa, and a number of German houses and haciendas.

“In America you can buy bucket-sized cups of coffee in any flavour you like other than coffee-flavour.” –Author Unknown

The kind people of Chiapas will make you feel very welcome. Their new port has provided them with a window to the outside world that had not previously existed. For the first time, tourism and tourists have easy access to their region of Mexico, which in many ways is the last to play a role in a modern economy beyond simply providing agricultural commodities. The influence of European families over the last century and a half has made for a population curious to learn more of a world from which they have been largely isolated. Doesn’t this sound like a stimulating topic to explore over a nice cup of coffee?

Progreso, Mexico

Gateway To The Yucatan

Someone named Garcilasso de la Vega explained the origin of the name Yucatan to those who happened to stumble across his obscure writings. In 1625, long before Amazon.com, he wrote on this topic in his work, Purchas his Pilgrimes. This was also before Spellcheck.

“Yucatan received the name from … the first discoverers asking the place, the Indian answering tectetan, tectetan, that is, I understand you not, which they understood of the proper appellation, and corruptly called the place Yucatan.”

In all fairness, and with all due respect, Yucatecan / Mayan words are right proper tongue twisters, suitable for any Scrabble or spelling bee finalist. But tackle them we must, and why not start with Chicxulub.

Death To The Dinosaurs

Virgil L. Sharpton of Houston’s Lunar and Planetary Institute identifies for us exactly how the entire population of dinosaurs died some 65 million years ago, give or take. A giant asteroid or comet, identified by Luis Alvarez in 1980, smacked into Earth almost where you’re standing at this very moment. Don’t look up! Luis along with his son Walter postulated that this rocketing rock left a 200-300-kilometer-wide crater that now lies buried under 1100 meters of limestone. And, the Alvarezes were convinced that this event caused the mass extinction of the dinosaurs as well as more than 70% of all life on earth. Thankfully, Crystal’s chefs were left unscathed. Oh, to tie this all together, note that the underground divot became known as Chicxulub. Say that three times!

Sights, Sounds, and Spicy Foods

That was then, this is now. You’ve come to Progreso for its archaeological wonders, a flashback look at Mexico Past, or perhaps a grilled Gulf of Mexico lobster.

Archaeological wonders abound beginning with Chichen-Itza, the jewel in the proverbial Mayan crown. In truth a fusion of Toltec and Mayan mastery, Chichen-Itza’s centerpiece is El Castillo pyramid. Its quartet of staircases, each counting 91 steps, plus the platform above, equals the exact number of days in one year. Each façade features 52 panels indicating something known as the “52-year cosmic cycle” used to calculate the beginning and end of time. It’s a complicated mathematical theory that your guide can explain in detail but suffice to say, according to the Mayan people, the Great Cycle of the Long Count will run out in 2011. And, who knows what that means? Chichen-Itza’s other highlights include the Observatory, lovingly referred to as “The Snail”, and the Ball Court where the vanquished lost their heads.

Dzibilchaltun (dZeeble-TOON) is one of America’s oldest continuously occupied settlements with more than 8,000 structures. Like Chichen-Itza, it draws throngs of visitors for the spring equinox and also features an important freshwater pool known as a cenote. Worshippers tossed offerings into the sweet waters including sacrificed humans.

Izamal, founded in the 5th century by a Mayan priest, was once a prestigious Mayan place of worship. Sadly, the Spanish destroyed many of the important structures by tearing down existing temples then reusing the stones for the massive Convento de San Antonio de Padua.

Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture aficionado or someone on a spiritual pilgrimage, the Mayans left a full menu of sites behind for your sampling.

Progreso and Nearby Merida

The port city of Progreso evolved quite differently from its mainland counterparts. Like other Yucatecan outposts, it was square in the sites of Mother Spain rather than the colonial powers that focused instead on the bulk of Mexico’s interior. Spain ruled over the Yucatan with a heavy hand often at the expense of the local indigenous people. Pirates, too, caused much suffering. Then religious factions locked horns with the civil authority and, generally, a bad time was had by all. Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1821. The people of the Yucatan attempted to separate from the rest of Mexico, which then led to the War of the Casts in 1847. The indians were given arms and they succeeded in driving out the federal troops in certain areas. Government forces re-armed and, within six years, the indian population declined by half.

With the political climate cooled down, the landowners set about amassing fortunes from something known as henequen. This local fibrous plant provided the raw materials used in the production of rope. Merida became known as the “Paris of the New World” with more millionaires per capita than any other city in all of Mexico. Glorious estates were erected, impressive cathedrals and monasteries were built, and fine buildings were constructed to house the civil authority. Plaza de la Independencia’s zocalo was the scene of much fanfare as dignitaries came and went, the wealthy standing by their side. Because of all these niceties, Merida is known even today as the White City. A carriage, or calesas, ride around town, especially down Paseo de Montejo, will give testimony to the above.

During the 1950s, the Meridanos learned to escape the summer heat by retreated to their new beach houses in Progreso. Today, this city remains a magnet for sun worshippers who stroll the Malecon promenade and others who sit under a shady palapa umbrella in their guayabera shirts and Panama hats or swing on the afternoon breeze in a locally woven hammock. A typical conchinita pibil meal or queso relleno is the only thing a cool breeze can’t help. Yucatecan habanero chilies are said to be the hottest in the world. It’s best to leave this statement left unchallenged.

Panama Hats

Chic Chapeaux

We’re going to play a little game.

But, you absolutely mustn’t cheat by secretly scanning the following paragraphs for the answer to this compelling bit of trivia. And, please don’t shout out your response (should you know it) in case others around you are puzzled by this wee bit of trifle.

Ready? Here’s the riddle. Where do Panama hats come from? Surprise, Surprise, Surprise! If you guessed Panama — you’re wrong. Wrong, wrong, wrong. That, of course, was the obvious answer and one a silly contestant on Jeopardy might blab out (followed by endless heaps of humiliation from friends and family back home). You, the learned traveler, however should know (and maybe you do already) that Panama hats come from…Ecuador.

Makes no sense, I know. But a good story goes along with this whole tale, and it follows.

Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

That’s the official name for this handsome headgear. “Paja” is the type of straw woven to create this hat. “Toquilla” is what the Spanish conquistadors labeled this head-covering. Initially, the shape was a bit different with a flared “wing” rather than the trim brim as we know it today.

Examples of this hat were introduced into the U.S. just before the start of the 19th century. Some marketing genius convinced unsuspecting buyers that these hats actually grew on trees and were bleached white by the tropical sun.

Within a half-century, bustling Ecuadorian shops produced more than 200,000 hats for export. By 1950, some five million made their way from Ecuador to fashion capitals around the world. (Sadly, that number has declined steeply today as less expensive hats from Asia have flooded the marketplace.)

Even France’s King Napoleon III took a fancy to this decorative accessory when he caught glimpse of it at Paris’ 1855 World Exposition. Little did he and his fashion-mimicking followers realize that this fashion accouterment was nothing more than something to keep the burning sun out of the eyes of sweaty field hands toiling back in its homeland — Ecuador. In fact, these hats also served as, can you imagine, alligator bait! Unsuspecting beasts were distracted by a floating hat, while its cagey owner lurked underwater waiting to kill his prey.

What’s In A Name?

Well, you can’t blame the early prospectors who, either did or didn’t make their fortunes in the California gold mines. On their way back to their home states of the eastern U.S., these miners often traveled via the Isthmus of Panama. Saw the hat. Liked how it protected them from the sun. Called them “Panama hats.” Bought a few. Took them home. Legions of other men followed to work on the Panama Canal. Did the same. And the rest, as they say, is history.

The “Who’s Who” list of Panama hat aficionados includes everyone from British royalty to authors such as Mark Twain and Tom Wolfe. Yet it was Teddy Roosevelt who sealed this hat’s fashion fate by sporting a “Panama” following his journey to oversee the building of the Panama Canal.* American men, wanting to pump up their manly image, followed in T.R.’s booted footsteps and this hat became all the rage in America. Perhaps you even owned one.

There’s Nothing Like Quality

The toquilla bush (also called “jipijapa” – pronounced “hippy-hoppa”) is the source of this hat’s main ingredient. When the bush has grown for approximately three years, its long stalks are stripped to reveal superfine threadlike fibers within. For the next several days, these fibers are boiled and dried, boiled and dried, boiled and dried until they’re sufficiently strong for the weavers.

Conditions must be perfect for these weavers — not too hot for the fibers will break; not too moist for the weavers won’t be able to get a tight weave. Therefore, you’ll discover that most of the work is done by, sadly, women and children under overcast skies, the cool of dawn and dusk, or even under a moonlit sky.

Makers of the “Superfinos” boast that these hats are woven so tightly that, not only can they hold water, they can pass easily through a man’s wedding band. (Why would you want to do either?) Today, Monticristi and Jipijapa are Ecuador’s leading centers for hat production.

So, why not pick up one of these handsome devils, ease it onto your head at a rakish angle, then stroll lazily about the deck in your finest white linens. You must admit, it is a fine fashion statement.

*This 1906 trip was the first time an American president traveled outside the U.S. My, how times have changed.

Panama City, Panama

Smack In The Crosshairs of Commerce

Big time. You’ve got skyscrapers punctuating the skyline like towering glass and steel pickets in an architect’s fence. There are banks bigger than big and corporate headquarters for leaders of industry, communication, transportation, technology and the like. There’s a stock exchange where heavy hitters play with high stakes causing rhythms of economic ripples to sweep right the way around the world. And you’ve got a menu of upscale services to cater to the wants, wishes, whims and whatnot of a vibrant local and expat community. The sweet smell of success wafts in daily on the damp breezes blowing from the surrounding tropical rainforest. It’s all right here in Panama City, here where the big boys and girls, fat cats and kittens come to play.

But it’s always been that way.

Spain Liked It

So much so that in 1519, Pedro Arias de Avila planted his nation’s flag claiming it as Spain’s first true community on the American Pacific Rim. Within a dozen years, his men attacked the all-powerful Incan people in Peru paving the way for proper plundering, as some would have it, of the vast wealth of silver and of gold all bound for the coffers of home.

The crumbling remains of Panama Past can be seen in “Old Panama”, also known as Panama Viejo. A World Heritage Site today, it is in ruins thanks to a colorful character known as Admiral Sir Henry Morgan. A privateer by trade, he either torched or was there when the torching began in 1671. The facts are debated, but he definitely had his eye on what was considered the wealthiest city in all New Spain. For the record, Morgan and his band of merry looters evidently missed out on the really big bootie, so to speak, because it had already been secreted away to a ship bobbing happily along offshore.

Weary residents who survived the privateer’s wrath abandoned the ruins of Panama’s first city and built a new one, today called Casco Viejo.

Also Known As El Casco Antiguo

Newish, really. It harks back to the 17th century and is undergoing a gentrification face-lift. A fresh coat of paint here, some toney eateries there, galleries featuring installation art, and pretty people rambling about. A walk along the vaulted promenade known as Las Bovedas is a must in this Spanish colonial city covering 38 blocks (called manzanas). So, too, the defiant remains of the church and convent of Santo Domingo still standing despite fire and quakes and time. The plazas offer fine people watching whether it’s in Plaza Bolivar, named for the famous liberator, or Plaza de Francia. The latter features a monument that whispers of the silent suffering, even death, faced by canal workers felled by malaria, yellow fever. It pays tribute to the 22,000 engineers and laborers who died constructing the canal.

Plaza de la Independencia is known as the Plaza de la Catedral, as well, as its centerpiece is the Metropolitan Cathedral. 2003 marked the 100th anniversary of the nation’s separation from Columbia, which took place in Plaza Municipal. In this exact location, in 1821, formal procedures for Panama’s independence from Spain occurred.  

Fast Forward To Today

Casting off the shroud of historic Panama, the spotlight shines brightly on the glitzy glamour of modern Panama City. Considered the Third Panama City, she resembles nothing of her former self. It’s here where designers showcase their latest collections, where celebrated chefs whip up their finest foams and froths, and business lunches last long into the steamy night. It’s like Miami Beach, only further south.

Not far away is that which put Panama City on the map. The Panama Canal. Visitors can’t escape the lure of this folly, this visionary’s dream, this world wonder, this scratch in the earth that shaved months off a mariner’s journey. They want to see for themselves the path between the seas that altered the course of commerce forever. And they can from the Miraflores Locks Observation Center or a sail on Gatun Lake. They’ll learn of the plans to expand the operation with the construction of a pair of new locks, one on the Atlantic and one on the Pacific. In addition, existing channels in Gatun Lake will be deepened and widened and the Culebra Cut will be deepened, as well. All that means more commerce, more business, more business people, more services, and a lot more buzz about this city that’s been dubbed the Dubai of the Americas.

Never mind. Just munch on a Panamanian favorite known as bollo. It’s a delightful bit of soft corn wrapped up in cornhusks. Then support the Kuna Indians by purchasing one of their vividly embroidered pieces called molas or beaded winnis that decorate their calves and wrists. After all, they were among the original traders in Panama along with six other indigenous tribes. But that’s another story.

La Paz, Mexico

Baja’s Hot Spot

“Good-bye -- if you hear of my being stood up against a Mexican wall and shot to rags, please know that I think that a pretty good way to depart this life. It beats old age, disease, or falling down the cellar steps. To be a Gringo in Mexico – ah, that is euthanasia!”

So penned Ambrose Bierce in a letter dated October 1, 1913. Rather dramatic, this, but I suppose Mr. Bierce drove home his point especially the part about the cellar stairs. Never mind. It’s great to escape to this bit of Baja by the sea especially if you want to breathe in the clean, fresh air and feel absolutely alive. Comfortable temperatures, low humidity, and gentle breezes complete this south-of-the-border tableau. Note for the record that, along with the western shores of Chile and Africa, Baja boasts some of the world’s clearest skies. For that exact reason the national observatory was plunked down on this pencil-thin peninsula so stargazers can stare transfixed at the black, night sky.

Landscapes And Seascapes

Eons before there were dune buggies, micro-thongs or jet skis, the thousand-mile-long Baja Peninsula was nothing more than the western shores of mainland Mexico. Approximately 20 million years ago this narrow spit of land, twice the length of Florida, slowly inched its way across the Golfo de California, made possible by the seismic antics of the San Andreas Fault. Today, the Gulf of California is home to sport fish, gray whales, and pleasure crafts. In the beginning, it was not so wild and crazy.

There were some 40,000 indigenous people scraping out an existence when the Spaniards dropped anchor in 1535 and waded ashore led by Hernan Cortez. The first permanent settlement was not established in La Paz until 1811. Cortez’ countrymen set about developing the area while converting the indigenous people to Christianity. Ultimately, there were only 500 of the original inhabitants who survived. Though they died off in vast numbers, their 400 cave paintings, some dating back 1,000 years, thankfully survived.

City Of Peace. City Of Pearls.

La Paz does mean “peace” in Spanish. But, this seaside resort is more commonly called “the city of pearls.” With more than one-quarter of a million people, La Paz is Baja’s second largest city and capital of Baja California Sur (south). It’s found just a stone’s throw from the tropic of Cancer.

And though the waters off La Paz are some 10,000 feet deep, the shallow beds of oysters producing pearls put the city on the map and in the crosshairs of the Spanish. Cortes admired the black pearls he discovered here in the 16th century, naming one of the offshore islands “Isla de perlas.” Today it is called Espiritu Santo Island instead. Sadly, a disease wiped out the oyster population and the oyster death knell was heard far and wide.

Instead of oysters, today the limelight shines on the sea lions, hammerhead sharks, dolphins and tropical fish such as parrotfish and angelfish that delight snorkelers and scuba divers alike. The local colony of sea lions is Baja’s largest. In total, there are some 3,000 species of marine fauna lurking in the ice-blue seas. But the granddaddy of them all is the gray whale that migrates nearly 6,000 miles here from Alaska’s Bering Sea. Why? To breed and spawn in the tepid Baja shallows. Some 30 years ago, their breeding habitat was declared off limits to whalers who had hunted these 50-foot-long leviathans to near extinction, a practice set in place in the 1850s by Captain Charles M. Scammon from Maine. Today, they enjoy their time here from approximately December to May. These immense creatures then swim north again, as they have since time began, on the longest migration undertaken by any mammal on earth. The nearby whale sanctuary is known as Magdalena Bay.

Siesta Or Shopping? What to do.

Tough choice, this. You can while away the afternoon strolling along the Malecon waterfront in search of the perfect fried calamari and chilled cerveza. Or, you can make the 90-minute pilgrimage to Todos Santos to lounge about the hotel supposedly made famous by the Eagles in their hit song “Hotel California.” Hum as you go. Oh, and while you’re there discover why this enclave tucked into the Sierra de la Laguna hilltops is known as an artisan’s hideaway. Weavers produce wonders from hand-spun and hand-dyed wool, while potters create vases and tableware they then hand paint. Armed with enough souvenirs to satisfy everyone back home, you’ll soon see the sun set religiously into the background. A peaceful calm will be the legacy of your visit to La Paz. You’ll know what it’s like to be a Gringo in Mexico.

Gulfo do Papagayo, Costa Rica

Sounds like a little ditty we learned in school, but no! It’s not. It’s the Spanish word for “parrot.” Well, at least the “pa-pa-ga-yo” part is. And, “Gulfo do Papagayo” is, yes, the “Gulf of the Parrot”. But, as any tourism rep will tell you, this pretty little town is also known as the “Gulf of Sunsets”, “The Gulf of Beaches”, and “The Gulf of Relaxation.” So, take your pick. What’s it gonna be for your day in the sun?

Oh, for the record, “papagayo” also means “red fish full of venomous prickles, a large kite, or a bedpan”. Just thought you should know.

So Where Are We?

Costa Rica. The Rich Coast. Go north to Nicaragua, southeast to Panama, west to fabulous beaches with clear waters perfect for a swim. Golfo do Papagayo is only 10.7 degrees north of the Equator so there’s a lazy, no-wild-swings-in-temperature pace to the day. In fact, it rarely dips below 82 degrees or soars above 90. All this sealed the decision by the Costa Rican government to earmark Gulfo do Papagayo the ideal spot for tourism in 1974. But development projects were a bit too ambitious to be sustained by a fragile ecological environment so plans were put on the back burner until 1997. With a more viable plan in place and full government approval, construction began in earnest without compromising the setting.

What’s There To See?

Lots. Guanacaste Province is a nature-lover’s delight. Palo Verde National Park is 45,000 acres big, draped along the banks of the Tempisque River. With a puzzle of microhabitats, including everything from harsh salt ponds to swampy mangrove waters, it’s ideal for migrating waterfowl as well as those who refuse to leave. In fact, 300 plus bird species have been spotted in the park by avid birders and rangers. They claim there are more waterfowl and shorebirds here than in any other place in Central America with everything from ducks and storks to the more exotic toucans and parrots, even scarlet macaws.

They’re not the only creatures calling Palo Verde home. There are also some monkeys including the white-face and the howler, plus armadillos and something called a coatimundi that looks like a raccoon with a long tail and lots of little ones. Oh, do try not to disturb the American crocodiles inhabiting the park. You probably won’t trip over them because they can grow to a length of 15 feet! But, for a little bit of comfort, just know their diet is mainly wee frogs, unsuspecting crabs, and already-dead animals. They’re best seen from a riverboat anyway.

And, speaking of enjoying the Costa Rican waters, you can actually float along the Corobici River, go river rafting if you’re so inclined, jet ski along the beach, sail on catamaran at sunset, or get your block and tackle ready for some challenging deep-sea fishing. These waters are known for their Pacific sailfish, marlin, and other game fish like wahoo and dorado.

If you want to simply sail above all this, strap yourself to the Witches Rock zip line and whizz right past. However, leave time to learn about William Walker, the North American fellow who invaded Costa Rica in 1856. The “President of the Republic of Nicaragua” at that time, Walker and his band of private military boys were sent packing back to Nicaragua by a group of locals not wanting to succumb to his bravado. Walker was ultimately executed in 1860. Do read his fascinating story.

Peaceful Times

Gulfo do Papagayo today is home to waterfront resorts that welcome guests for frosty beverages with paper umbrellas and a day at their pools. Simply pick one that suits your fancy and permits day visitors. But if it’s history and sightseeing you seek, visit the colonial town of Liberia. Modest by most standards, it’s rather formidable for Costa Rica. Just about 500 feet above sea level, Liberia enjoys a drier climate than other parts of the country. In fact, it is often so dry winds bring with them a fine layer of dust. Some claim that’s why Liberia is called the “White City.” Most acknowledge, however, it’s due to the whitewashed buildings that can be blinding on a hot summer day. That’s all due to the bahareque clay.

Dating back to 1769, Liberia is home today to approximately 30,000 residents and is the provincial capital. Occasionally, a mounted horseman will ride through town en route to one of the surrounding estancias to work cattle or visit other caballeros. He’ll simply add interest to your photos of this tile-roofed colonial town that is quintessentially Costa Rican.

Finally, as the sun sinks toward the horizon, sample some comida tipica including coffee-wood roasted pork, shrimp or lobster, a beef stew called olla de carne, sopa negra black bean soup, or corn stew known as guiso de maiz. Finish with horchata, a spicy beverage Ticos enjoy made of cinnamon and roasted ground rice.

Ensenada, Mexico

Mexico Welcomes

Draped along Baja California’s warm Pacific shores, a mere sixty miles south of the U.S. border, is the bustling seaport of Ensenada. Long a favorite of vacationing Americans, they followed in the sandy footsteps of other discoverers and adventurers who traversed this 800-mile long peninsula that parts the waters of the Pacific Ocean from the Sea of Cortez, also known as the Gulf of California.

All this began in 1535 when Spanish Conquistador Hernando Cortez first visited the Baja Peninsula, lured there by legends of beautiful women who lazed away their days fishing for pearls. What Cortez discovered instead was a barren landscape inhabited by primitive Indians such as the Cochimies, Guaycuras, Peridues, Paipai and Kumiai. Today's explorers, however, find everything in Baja from fast-paced cities teeming with travelers to remote outposts as desolate as the outback. And, yes, the beautiful women are really there, as promised, wearing pearls and Gucci and Prada and Polo.

Ensenada’s natural harbor was named San Mateo, after Saint Matthew, by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo. But it was Sebastian Vizcaino, sailing under the Spanish flag, who renamed it Bahia de Todos Santos, a tribute to all saints. Ensenada served as a safe haven for early seagoing vessels including galleons heavily laden with the spoils of conquest. Whaling ships also anchored in the bay while en route to the Hawaiian Islands. Devout missionaries followed to cultivate crops and Christianity. Then gold was discovered in nearby Real de Castillo opening the floodgates to rancheros and miners, making Ensenada a fledgling pioneer settlement.

Today, local people welcome you to join in their stroll along the malecon boardwalk beside one of Mexico's prettiest bays that’s ringed by white-sand beaches. They’ll recommend a visit to the Riviera del Pacifico Cultural Center. It’s said that Al Capone’s money allegedly financed this venture that was managed by the famous boxer Jack Dempsey in the 1930s. It’s on Boulevard Costero and was frequented by a long list of luminaries during the heyday including, according to sources, Dolores del Rio, Myrna Loy, Lana Turner, Ali Khan and Johnny Weissmuller.

Spicy Seafood

Ensenada is famous for its seafood. Meandering down the sleepy streets, you can indulge in an earthen bowl of cebiche (seh-bee-chay)… raw fish that has been marinated in limejuice, tomatoes, chilies, and spices. Shrimps, scallops, octopus or crabmeat can be substituted for the traditional mackerel. Another local taste treat that tempts everyone is a "bean cone." It resembles an ice cream cone but is, instead, a crisp tortilla filled with a scoop of refried beans, shredded jack cheese, green and red salsas, then sprinkled with some freshly chopped coriander leaves. If it’s a proper fish dinner you want, remember the nearby waters are home to some of the most beautiful giant white sea bass, swordfish, albacore, and yellowtail. And don’t forget the famous fish taco!

Margaritas are a hometown favorite but there are also some famous local wineries producing wine from vines that have clung to the sunny slopes surrounding Ensenada for years. Casa Pedro Domecq Winery, one of the area’s most famous, offers a variety of prize-winning vintages. With a toast to this charming city, it's time to dig into some of that local cuisine.

Handcrafted Treasures

Whether you're a veteran shopper or one who souvenir hunts more casually, you'll be tempted by Ensenada's handicrafts. Items are still lovingly crafted and decorated by hand, many in small family-run workshops where the skill is passed from one generation to the next.

Local specialties include hand-painted pottery and ceramics by resident artists. Mexican silver is always a good buy and is usually quite lovely. Whether made into jewelry such as bracelets, earrings, and rings, or household items like candlesticks, vases, and bowls, the prices are often quite reasonable. Leather goods, including huarache sandals, are also a great buy though the quality can vary substantially. Embroidered cotton blouses are colorful souvenirs and typical of the region. Other bargains include coffee-flavored Kahlua, a Mexican liqueur. No matter what it is that catches your eye, you simply must have a memento from your time ashore in Baja California's port city of Ensenada.

Costa Maya, Mexico

What To Do? What To Do?

That’s a tough one. Your options on this glorious day are to: (1) channel Indiana Jones as you clamber about ancient Mayan ruins; (2) discover this planned destination with its full complement of activities and distractions to fill your time ashore; or (3) do absolutely “nothing” the entire afternoon at the ship’s pool as a smiling steward serves up frothy something-or-other’s. What to do? Oh, what to do?

Let’s Discover The Basics

Costa Maya is found in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo (QR to those in the know), one of the nation’s 32 states. The area’s unique name is derived from Andrés Quintana Roo, one of the Mexican Republic’s celebrated patriots who played a critical role in the War of Independence from Spain in 1810. It’s Mexico’s only state flanking the Caribbean and sits astride one of the Yucatan Peninsula’s once practically-deserted stretches. As part of the “Maya Coast”, development since approximately 1955, it has been undertaken under the watchful eye of the Mexican government. They were intent on protecting the ecology as well as the archaeology.

So, now, you’re here. Others will be, as well, because Costa Maya claims to be the very first Caribbean port developed with only cruise ship passengers in mind. Period. That’s the claim. And the Mexican government has allocated significant resources for the infrastructure of this vibrant tourism destination with all the luscious offerings .. beaches, boutiques, folklorico shows, cantinas, mariachis, margaritas and the promise of adventures beyond.

With vine-draped Mayan ruins, important archaeological sites, and the world’s second largest coral reef system nearby, what’s not to like? The underwaterworld is quite content here. In fact, some 500 different fish species and approximately 60 varieties of coral call the Meso-American reef home.

These clear waters and calm seas offered earlier people a simpler but very good life as fishermen. Though those days are a fading memory, you can still get a hint of their lifestyle in the village of Mahahual, no longer the simple sleepy little village it once was but now a destination ready to welcome visitors.

Carved In Stone and Stucco

The Mayan people still exist here and are eager to introduce you to their traditional ways, their cuisine including buried earth-cooked chicken, and their music with emphasis on flutes, whistles, rattles, and drums. They’ll also boast about their ancestors who carved vibrant cities from the steaming jungles, cities that flourished for centuries.

Dzinbanche is one such city, an imposing remnant from the past. This ancient Mayan community, whose name translates to “writing on wood”, is worthy of a visit for it’s believed it was once the capital of the Kan (“Snake”) Dynasty. You were wrong if you guessed Dzinbanche is the newest, hottest designer coming out of all Asia. You were right if you guessed it was the Kan capital in the 5th and 6th centuries. Designed in the “Peten” architectural style, it features something called the Temple of the Captives and the Temple of the Owl. Among its many important structures is the most powerful pyramid of all, the Cormoranes Pyramid. Experts believe this was Sky Witness’s funerary pyramid. He was one of the Kan Dynasty’s kings.  

Kohunlich is another important archaeological site, lined with 40-foot-tall cohune palm trees for which it was named. These majestic palms provided ample shade from the burning sun for residents and travelers alike. The former resided here from 200 BC until 600 AD. The latter were those who passed through on the well-worn trade route. Mayans traded their fabrics, jade and obsidian objects, salt and shells. All the while everyone was under the watchful eye of Kinich Ahau, the sun god, whose 10-foot-tall mask is one of the most important artifacts among so many. Important, too, is the Ball Court home to the Mesoamerican ballgame that dates back centuries. A brutal sport, this, it resembled a gladiator version of racquetball, played against long stone walls, occasionally with some sort of human sacrifice as part of the half-time entertainment. Today’s gentler version, more like volleyball, is called ulama and is played even by children.

Back At The Beach

The biggest game here is bargaining. English is spoken everywhere though some visitors are surprised to discover the local people still speak the Mayan language. Perhaps you’ll find a colorful poolside cover-up or some hand-tooled cowboy boots. The local people are masters at their crafts, be it silver jewelry or hand-thrown pottery including the Mayan whistles already mentioned. There are jade carvings, hand-woven huipils (those beautifully-embroidered white blouses), and thatch handbags.

As the sun arcs slowly overhead and you grow weary from the day’s running about, sink low into a colorful string hammock swinging between two shady trees and enjoy a time-honored tradition, the afternoon siesta. Now that is the right answer to the question, what to do, what to do?

Whitsunday Islands, Australia

The Whitsundays are a magnificent stretch of islands that lie sprinkled off Australia’s Queensland coast like a shower of pebbles. Mariners the world over know of this waterway where 74 islands are studded with palms and wrapped in white sand. Some are little more than coral outcroppings, other boast world-class resorts. The real attraction for many, however, lies just beneath the waves.

Great Barrier Reef

The Whitsundays are a cluster of offshore islands stretching 200 miles between Townsville in the north and the town of Mackay in the south. Together, these coral specks form the Whitsunday Island National Park, part of the Great Barrier Reef.

Australia’s Great Barrier Reef is acknowledged as the world’s largest living thing for, after all, it is alive. Washed by the warm waters of the Coral Sea, it stretches more than 1300 miles from the Torres Strait in the north to the Tropic of Capricorn off Queensland’s city of Rockhampton.

This reef was formed by countless millions of microscopic polyps whose skeletal remains stacked upon one another to form the structure. Live polyps continue the process to this day developing into such unique formations as “wrinkled brain,” and something called “elkhorn.” All this becomes the basis for other marine life including algae and a rainbow of tropical fish. Snorkelers and divers can easily identify such beauties as red emperors and butterfly fish, not to mention the angelfish we all know and love from our childhood tanks at home.

As discoverers and cartographers struggled to chart and name all these countless specks forming the Great Barrier Reef, they let their imaginations run wild. A close inspection of these charts will introduce the observer to the likes of Magnetic Island, Great Palm Island, Heron Island, Lizard Island, even Daydream Island. Then, not too surprisingly, there’s Shark Reef, Wreck Reef and Osprey Reef. It seems as though their creative genius ran a bit dry in short order.

Captain Cook’s Catastrophe

Everyone knows of Captain Cook’s accomplishments, few know of his missteps, so to speak. During his command of HMS Endeavor from 1768 through 1771, Cook and crew spent time in these waters charting the islands. While here, his ship suffered substantial damage after hitting a patch of coral. It was uncertain for a time, whether the craft could even be saved. Cook was forced to beach the vessel at nearby Cooktown, as it is now known, to make necessary repairs. The spot where Cook’s vessel actually suffered this humiliating accident is, today, called Endeavor Reef.

The Passage

The Whitsunday Passage is a narrow waterway, some 30 miles in length that stretches north-northwest from Cape Conroy to Double Cone Island. A mere two miles wide at its narrowest point, it requires the skill of learned seafarers to successfully navigate these waters. The broadest expanse measures only six miles across.

Waters here are as shallow as 84 feet deep, but also reach depths of 360 feet. Today’s navigational aides have done away with the need for look-outs perched high atop the ship’s masts or in crow’s nests, spyglass in hand. Our Captain maneuvers from the comfortable luxury of the bridge, surrounded by the highest-tech equipment found at sea.

Simpler crafts, such as sailboats and gorgeous yachts come to the Whitsundays in numbers. For their captains recognize that a cruise through this magical island maze is, according to many who have sailed here before them, one of cruising’s most rewarding experiences. 

Tauranga, New Zealand

Beauty and Bounty

Rudyard Kipling, were he alive today, could be heard exclaiming that New Zealand is “the eighth wonder of the world.” He visited this country in 1891 during a lengthy sea voyage, the advice of his very wise doctor. Kipling was not wrong about New Zealand. An author, a respected poet, and an avid world traveler with a keen sense of wanderlust, Kipling knew a good thing when he saw one and he viewed New Zealand as absolutely magical.

Well, the challenge for your visit to Tauranga can all be summed up in the ringing out of the name of a North Island enclave near Tauranga called “Whatawhata.” That’s what you’ll be asking yourself when presented with a list of activities for your short stay.  Whatawhatamigonna do? You’ll need to decide exactly which of the many options will receive your full attention today – a dramatic beach, a blast of vulcan fury, a sip of a fine regional wine, a journey back to a time of conflict, or an introduction to New Zealand’s Maori culture?

The North Island

As easily as one wanders from Disneyland’s Fantasyland to Frontierland, feeling as though he’s literally traveled through time, one can journey between New Zealand’s North Island and South Island. Though both islands are dazzling to the eye, the North Island offers up a panorama of explosive geysers and primeval pools of bubbling mud. All around are fissures in the earth shooting steam clouds into the sky.

It is said that the North Island’s creation is rooted in Maori mythology. Long ago, a powerful son of the gods caught a large fish in the sea. Maui, as this lad was known, ordered his brothers to leave the fish alone. But his brothers defied Maui’s order not to eat the fish he had caught. The fish wriggled and writhed and ultimately escaped to create the jagged landscape that is now New Zealand’s North Island. In the Maori language, the North Island is known as “the fish of Maui” or “Te Ika A Maui.”

A Place Called Tauranga

The town of Tauranga lies perched on the North Island’s eastern coast where the waters of the Bay of Plenty wash ashore. Captain Cook was so impressed with the congenial islanders in this area that it was he who named this spot the Bay Of Plenty. And, with good reason. The mild climate here supports a bountiful agricultural backdrop including large forests used for timber. Though Tauranga is today a busy center for tourism and commerce, it also has a very rich history.

Some 150 years ago, Tauranga was a bustling community that relied on flax trading for much of its income. As with so many fledgling towns, along with merchants and traders came the missionaries to spread the word of God. But no faith could stem the tide of conflict. In 1864, Tauranga experienced some terrible battles during the New Zealand Wars. In fact, a compassionate tale is often told about an incident that occurred during the fierce Battle of Gate Pa. It is said that a British soldier, wounded during a skirmish, cried out for water as he lay on the damp earth wracked with pain. A brave Maori woman named Heni te Kirikamu heard the soldier’s weakening cries. Unable to listen any longer, she silently crept behind enemy lines to fetch water to take to this fallen soldier and four others who lay wounded nearby.

While in Tauranga, you can visit Gate Pa, site of one of the final battles between the British and Maori people or the Missionary House that dates back to 1847.

Further Afield

Rotorua is the highlight for many visitors who experience its bubbling mud pools and steaming thermals. At the Whakarewarewa Thermal Village, geysers fill the air with a mist that mystified early members of the Tuhourangi-Ngati Wahio tribe. Also mystifying is why some people bungee jump, zip along the Kaituna River in jetboats, or raft on the Rangitaiki but they do because this is unmistakably the land of adventure.

Chinese Gooseberries

Nearly 100 years ago, Chinese gooseberries found their way to the Bay of Plenty. Three decades passed before a farmer named Jim MacLoughlin set aside an acre of land for the cultivation of this fruit. But it wasn’t until some 25 years later that that this unique, fuzzy brown fruit became a marketable, exportable commodity. It became known, quite simply, as kiwifruit. And the rest, as they say, is history.

So, while here in sunny Tauranga, you can wander past the historic sights, take in the local color, or sit under a shade tree along The Strand scooping out the flesh of a perfectly-ripened kiwi while reading a Kipling tale. It’s all rather pleasant, one might say.

Perth, Australia

Western Australia’s “City of Lights”

It was 1961. The United States’ manned space program was operating in full swing. Astronaut John Glenn had been selected as the first American to orbit the earth. While in flight, he and his craft flew directly over the Western Australian city of Perth. Though this was during the deep dark of night, it is said that Perth’s 1.2 million enthusiastic citizens flicked on the switches for every single working light bulb in the entire city. In doing so, these jubilant Australians signaled a luminescent hello to Colonel John Glenn from his land-based comrades below.

Lonely Isolation

Western Australia is by far the nation’s largest state. In fact, Alaska and Texas combined are not nearly as big as this 960,000-square-mile state. Note for comparison that India, while approximately the same in scale, is home to 700 million people. Western Australia, in contrast, is home to a mere 1.5 million. And those people choose to live there for a host of reasons including the glorious beaches (some 4,000 miles of them to be exact!) and delightful climate. In fact, the sun shines an average of eight hours each and every marvelous day.

Perth holds the dubious title of the “world’s most remote capital city.” How remote is it, you ask? It is so remote that many Sydneysiders have never even journeyed there. Perth, oddly enough, is geographically closer to the Indonesian island of Bali than it is to Sydney.

Early Settlers

The first European to lay eyes on this vast area was a Dutchman by the name of Dirk Hartog. That historic event took place in 1616. Following in his wake, over the years, were many seamen from the Dutch East India Company, some of whom who had been blown off course while sailing to Java, formerly Batavia. The noted British explorer William Dampier also arrived here, in 1688 aboard Cygnet, but he declared the entire area devoid of anything worthy, and sailed off in disgust. 

Close to 100 years passed before another Brit, Captain James Cook, sailed these waters.

This part of western Australia remained overlooked and underpopulated until 1827, when the London-based British Colonial Authorities grew suspicious of the French, whom they felt were interested in establishing a base there. That action, they believed, would threaten the British stronghold in eastern Australia. Therefore, the British authorities hurriedly sent out Captain James Stirling to demonstrate England’s presence in the area by building a British stronghold. He selected, for this fledgling community, a site along the Swan River some ten miles upriver from the sea. And within two years, the city of Perth was somewhat established, boasting a population of 300 permanent residents.

Unfortunately, not many others were eager to follow in their footsteps. In fact, only 3,000 residents called Perth home as recently as 1858! At that time, local government officials were forced to ask for convicts to be imported as a source of desperately-needed labor. Harsh conditions, lack of good roads, and unreliable communication all combined to add to the town’s feeling of isolation.

There’s Gold In Those There Hills

Gold was discovered in the 1890s at places called “Coolgardie” and “Kalgoorlie” found some 300 miles east of Perth. In fact, within one frenzied 30-day period during the goldfields’ greatest boom time, a staggering 200 pounds of this precious metal was mined. Waves of fortune-seeking prospectors flocked to the countryside. Telegraph and telephone service was brought in. A well-needed railroad was completed in 1917. Then, with the discovery of oil in the region, even more fortune seekers flowed in.

Over time, huge cattle ranches were built up providing not only enough beef to feed the nation but a surplus for exports as well. More money was to be made from the uranium mines that were later discovered. And, if these riches were not enough, in 1970 a productive diamond mine was also developed nearby!

All this glorious prosperity was not lost on the citizens of Perth and nearby Fremantle. Skyscrapers rose from the earth. Theaters and marinas were built. These sister cities truly blossomed, flush from the riches the land had provided.

But Perth and Fremantle really came into the limelight when the world’s eyes were focused on the 1987 America’s Cup race, held on the waters off Fremantle. The crew of Australia II had, in the previous race a few years earlier, relieved the United States of this prized sailing trophy which had been in American hands since the race’s inception, an incredible 132 years earlier. (Note, for the record, the Cup was successfully wrestled away from Australia’s competitive sailors and returned to American shores following the races off the coast of Fremantle. This coveted Cup then went to New Zealand where the competition will heat up again in a few short weeks.)

Perth today enjoys all the trappings of a vibrant, young, prosperous city glowing in the sun. And the port of Fremantle is its lively sister city.                                                                                                          

Newcastle, Australia

Like Carrying Coals to Newcastle? Not Likely.

Well, for those familiar with the saying, “it’s like carrying coals to Newcastle” you understand it means doing something absolutely pointless or completely superfluous. It’s because there’s already lots of whateveritisyou’retalkingabout there. It’s like saying, “do you want some more useless stuff for your room Tommy?”. You see, England’s Newcastle-upon-Tyne needed no coal in the Middle Ages because it was a successful coal mining center already. Get it?

The Newcastle you’ll soon visit was named for its English counterpart because it, too, has known success associated with coal mining. In fact, it’s claimed that even today Australia’s Newcastle is the world’s largest coal exporting port. So you won’t likely be carrying coals to this Newcastle, now will you?

Mark Twain Was Here

In 1895, he was. The American author and humorist described Newcastle as “a very long street with, at one end, a cemetery with no bodies in it and, at the other, a gentlemen’s club with no gentlemen in it.” Today he’d be dead wrong on both accounts, oddly enough. There are the most congenial gentlemen and ladies whose true mission is to welcome you to their thriving community, New South Wales’ second largest. They’ll tell tales about its early days as a penal colony, dating back to 1804 when convicts were punished by doing hard labor in the mines. They’ll speak of the industrial boom time when miners were digging for coal as fast as the dockworkers could ship it out. And when the steel mills glowed red hot even through the long, balmy Australian nights. Then, how the local Novacastrians were hard working, salt-of-the-earth blue-collar folks carving out a life. And, they’ll boast about the city’s gentrification standing tall in the shadow of Sydney’s limelight, a mere 100 miles away. These folks, some of the 250,000 residents, will be waving from their terraces as you sail up the mouth of the Hunter River.

Looking Back At Hard Times

You can do so with little trouble. This was a penal colony and few came here in the early days for shopping and a barbie in the park. No. They came to do time or oversee those who were.

Maitland Prison, a museum today, housed some of the nation’s hardest criminals for 150 years. It’s considered the country’s longest operating prison. Hear tales from ex-warders and ex-inmates who served in Maitland. The first group went home at the end of their shifts; the latter to maximum security lockdown. You won’t have time but, if you did, you and your pals could book a night in lockdown for the true prison experience. What a hoot!

Even prisoners needed a bit of fresh air now and again. That’s where the Former Convict Lumber Yard comes into play. Now a park, it features representations of what a day in the woods was for these less-than-friendly fellows. You’ll need a bit of imagination as some of the early buildings have not withstood the test of time.

But Others Have

Those in Morpeth, for example. During the 1830s and 1840s, this town served as the Hunter Valley’s main port. Lieutenant E.C. Close is noted as the visionary who, from 1831 to 1841, developed 2500 acres into a river port. Many of the historical buildings are listed on the Register of the National Estate including Closebourne House, the public library, railway station and police station. The town, a popular get-away destination today, was named for Morpeth Northumberland, Newcastle-upon-Tyne’s neighbor back in England.  

Another resort town in the area is called The Entrance, curiously. And speaking of curious, one of the highlights is the daily pelican feeding. Other sites include the Boardwalk, the War Library Museum, and lots of recreational opportunities. The area has a fascinating history, with enough stories for a Hollywood blockbuster – shipwrecked fishermen taken in by Aborigines; a white woman living with the indigenous people; Chinese fishermen at Toowoon Bay and a rail line to Newcastle from Sydney that opened the floodgates of tourism.

And, for those who are more interested in nature, there’s the Blackbutt Reserve or the Australian Reptile Park. In addition to adorable fuzzy stars like koalas and kangaroos there’s the oddball platypus and the gnarly dingo. The highlight for some is the park’s ever-popular venom-milking program that’s credited with saving some 300 lives annually.

Well, all this sightseeing need not weary you. Step into a tearoom for a spot of tea, nibbly bits and bikkies or into a wine bar to sample some of Hunter Valley’s finest wines from its 110 wineries including the award-winning Roche Tallawanta Shiraz or their fine Premium Reserve Shiraz. Toast to your adventures ashore in Newcastle as you sail out, back past those who so eagerly welcomed you earlier in the day. Remember to wave.  

Napier, New Zealand

It’s 10:46am, February 3rd, 1931. As unsuspecting locals go about their mornings-as-usual morning, a magnitude 7.9 earthquake rips right through the streets of Napier with a deafening, grinding force. It was as if a hoard of angry gods unleashed the full strength of their fury, grabbing the earth and shaking it like a rag doll. This terror and violence lasted a horrifying two and a half minutes. When the rumbling stopped and the dust finally settled the tiny town of Napier was wiped smack off the map.

Then someone smelled smoke. A fire had started in a local pharmacy incinerating the rubble as well as everything in its path including nearby Hastings. As the carnage continued, 258 local people perished. Astoundingly, the entire area was raised up by this cataclysmic thrust a staggering seven feet creating 9,000 new acres of dry land. Imagine. Now, if this weren’t enough for the dazed community, over the next two weeks there were 525 aftershocks. These paled, however, by comparison with the shock community leaders faced with the prospect of literally starting over to rebuild their town. But, rebuild they did for the fine folks of Napier are quite hardy, indeed.

Art Deco

Yes, it was determined almost immediately to rebuild the town, starting with essentially a clean sheet of paper. Within months, the Napier Reconstruction Committee was formed and plans for a new central business district began to take shape. Architects, working as teams and independently, were profoundly influenced by the European Art Deco style of the mid-1920s, with its geometric forms, stucco surfaces, and relief decorations. Remember, this is not the same as the art deco of Miami Beach, which is closer to a parallel movement called Streamline Moderne. Traces of that style are found in the Municipal Theater. The Masonic Hotel, Taylor Building, Daily Telegraph Building and Kidson’s Building are each considered among the classics of the European genre.

There’s also a touch of California’s Spanish Mission style. Napier’s citizens were so impressed by stories of Santa Barbara’s recovery after a 1925 earthquake that they used that California city as inspiration for their own architectural revival. Charlie’s Art Deco Restaurant in the Hawkes Bay Chambers is worthy of a look, as well.

Cape Kidnappers

Curious name... “Cape Kidnappers.” This is the wind-and-sea sculpted, five-mile long peninsula at the southern end of Hawkes Bay. And, as the story goes, when some unruly Maoris tried yet failed to abduct one of Captain James Cook’s crewmen from Endeavor in 1769, that great explorer was able to add to his list of strange and wonderful Pacific place names... “Cape Kidnappers”. It’s also home to one of nature’s stranger species... the gannet.

“Gannet” is the more attractive name for a member of the booby family. In fact, over 20,000 of them nest here creating the world’s largest and most accessible mainland colony of these spectacular flyers, but unsure walkers. Until early May they soar overhead on six-foot wingspans bearing the latest seafood offerings for fuzz-ball chicks waiting hungrily. Due to the parents’ long days in flight searching for food, their land legs are often not as highly developed and landings can be a comical affair, for the observer that is.

The World’s 41st Most Beautiful Golf Course

That factoid comes from Golf Magazine’s respected ranking of the World’s 100 Best. However, as usual, beauty comes at a cost. The Links at Cape Kidnappers presents some of the most intimidating holes a golfer can face. Challenging fairways stretch along fingers of land scalloped into jagged cliffs. Greens at each tip create a permanent penalty for misdirected shots as golfers are warned against fishing for balls lost in the surf hundreds of feet below. And if the predictable wind is blowing, you’ll not be worrying about your handicap on this Tom Doak-designed, par 71 carnival ride. You’ll simply be holding onto your hat and making sure you don’t get blown over the ledge.

Once safe back in the clubhouse, there’s a buzz with first impressions and “never seen anything like it” stories as everyone shows off enough new logo wear to create covetous glances back on the home course.

Hawkes Bay Wines

After all this outdoor activity, something New Zealanders relish, you’ll discover there are some delightful indoor ones as well. One is tasting a variety of excellent New Zealand wines as the Hawkes Bay region has earned world-class credentials for many of its wineries. Craggy Range is currently top-of-the-heap with their Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Syrah offerings. But several others (Brookfields, Church, Mission, Sileni and Ngatarawa) are also wonderful as local winemakers use the 300 plus days of sunshine per year that warm the area’s vineyards.

So there you have it. Culture, nature, sport and the nectar of the gods all in one tidy package.

Hobart, Australia

Australia On Steroids

At some point near the end of the last ice age—some 10,000 years ago—seas flooded the lowlands connecting what is now Tasmania to the Australian mainland creating the notorious Bass Strait, a legendary body of water among the world’s racing yachtsmen. Its location astride the “Roaring 40s” of the Southern Ocean makes it the highlight of the annual Sydney-Hobart Yacht Race. During a freakish storm in 1998 five yachts were sunk with the loss of six lives during that race. Only 44 of the 115 starters were able to limp into Hobart.

The inevitable isolation of Tasmania allowed for the development of physical characteristics distinct from any other region in the world, flora and fauna as unique as a science fiction fantasy, and tales of the human condition ranging from the sublime to the bizarre.

As a visitor to Hobart, you may face your most daunting challenge yet, simply because there are just too many choices for a one day visit. Some historical highlights might help you decide.

European Settlement

Abel Tasman, the Dutch explorer upon whose “Sea” you have just traveled—was the first European to sight this island in 1642. The first settlement did not arrive until 1803 composed, in fine Australian tradition, mainly of convicts and their military guards. One of the world’s most notorious penal colonies was later established at Port Arthur.

Port Arthur is now Tasmania’s top tourist attraction but its history borders on the horrific. Its prison housed the hardest criminals Britain and Ireland could produce and, although it was conceived as a model prison where new theories of rehabilitation were tested, it had, by reputation, some of the harshest conditions existing anywhere on earth. Surrounded by shark-infested waters on three sides, it was sold as inescapable. Even so, one enterprising convict tried crossing its narrow land bridge disguised in a kangaroo hide. He failed to reckon on the half starved guards on duty who tried to shoot him for a meal.

It is said that the former prison is inhabited by ghosts and, indeed, a nighttime ghost tour is offered. Some of the ghosts may be those 35 victims of the 1996 Port Arthur Massacre—the worst mass murder in Australian history. Today’s bucolic fields speak to a gentler future.

Native Species

Tasmanian Aboriginals had occupied the territory of the island for some 35,000 years, but their fate at the hands of a colonial power was the same sad story replayed among indigenous populations around the world. Those who managed to survive European diseases were eventually wiped out during an episode known as the Black Line when colonists formed a human chain across the island to corral the remaining aborigines and remove them to Flinders Island. As a result there is almost no native culture preserved in Tasmania. The same fate befell some of the unique species that once inhabited this wild island.

Tasmania was once home to a marsupial resembling a wild dog. It had distinctive striping across its back and was known colloquially as a Tasmanian Tiger. It had earlier existed on the mainland but lost out to the dingo. Farmers, bounty hunters and collectors for overseas museums appear to have finished the job in Tasmania as well although there are, to this day, unconfirmed sightings.

Seemingly headed for a similar fate is the Tasmanian Devil, another marsupial resembling a small dog. It has a decidedly unpleasant temperament accentuated by a screechy growl. Devils are scavengers living primarily on road kill. Unfortunately they don’t seem to have the reflexes to avoid becoming road kill themselves. Despite efforts to preserve the species, the combination of disease and highways has reduced their population by 80%.

The Fun Part

Australians have a well-deserved reputation for being almost obsessively active. If anything, Tasmanians may take that to another degree. Owing to the variety of physical environments close at hand, trekking, mountain biking, kayaking, surfing and other water sports are all on the daily menu. Most can be enjoyed on nearby Mt. Wellington, which provides a dramatic backdrop to Hobart. Any number of conveyances can get you to the top, and whether you descend by foot for an up close look at the wildlife, or by skateboard for an adrenal rush, you’ll have earned your share of the other great Aussie pastime—eating and drinking. A stroll through the nearby, lovingly-preserved town of Richmond, or historic Salamanca Place, hard by the port, will reveal eateries and drinkeries featuring locally brewed beers, locally grown wines, and locally caught seafood sure to form an indelible memory to punctuate your day in Hobart. Battery Point speaks to 19th-century elegance with its tiny cottages and sweeping mansions.

The Great Barrier Reef

It’s Alive ! It’s Alive !

But, you knew that. The Great Barrier Reef is, indeed, alive … alive with a rainbow of colors you’ve never dreamt of and with fish as strange as aquatic Avatars. It has definitely earned its well-deserved bullet on Mother Nature’s Greatest Hits chart, as well as its place in the WOW Hall of Fame.

That said, what do we really know about this undersea marvel? Well, the facts and stats are staggering. For the record, though, note that experts don’t always agree (there’s a surprise!) and what follows is our best representation of the materials we’ve reviewed on your behalf.

*             The Great Barrier Reef is the largest coral reef in the world.

*            Hence, it is the largest living thing on earth and can be seen from outer space and astronauts zipping by.

*            It measures 1,300 miles long, from Queensland’s Lady Elliot Island to New Guinea’s Gulf of Papua.

*            The reef covers 80,000 square miles, an area slightly smaller than Kansas.

*            Scientists believe the reef’s current structure is approximately 8,000 years old. Some experts think its original reef is 500,000 years old while others peg the age closer to 18 million years old. It’s like trying to guess a beautiful woman’s age. Anyway, either way it’s rather young as those in tiny little modern corals of southern Europe are said to be 230 millions years old.

*            The many islands of the Great Barrier Reef, 900 give or take, are either coral in nature or were formed when they were separated from the mainland some 10 to 125 miles away.

*            Tides and waves alter the reef daily. Dugongs, related to elephants and manatees and weighing up to 400 kilograms, visit the reefs a little less frequently.

*            The Great Barrier Reef Lagoon, wedged between the coast and the reef, is approximately 325 feet deep.

*            In some places, the reef measures 400 to 500 feet thick.

*            It was formed from a collection of 2,500 smaller reefs, which are intertwined.

*            300 – 400 species of hard coral are found here.

*            1,500 species of fish live in and around the reef.

*            2,000 - 4,000 species of shellfish also call the reef “home.”

*            Some of the world’s biggest black marlin swim nearby.

*            Humpback whales are also common in this area, especially             in early September. A total of 30 whale species swim by.

*            In 1970, the government established the Great Barrier Reef             Marine Park to prevent oil companies from drilling on the reef.

*            In 1981, the reef was chosen as a World Heritage Site.

*            In 1985, the government declared the entire reef (except for 2%) a national park.

*            Evil poachers, nonetheless, raid the reef for shells and certain             sea creatures.

So How Did It All Begin?

One little hard coral polyp at a time. Individual polyps as small as 3 millimeters each cluster into colonies that can measure 1.5 meters in length, width, or height. Technically, they’re invertebrates, without a backbone. With the death of hard coral, a minuscule limestone structure is formed when its skeleton collects nearby debris or tiny bits of sand. With this process repeating over and over, millions of times, the reef grows and grows.

All the while, soft coral is floating about on the periphery of the growing reef waiting for plankton to drift by and serve as its nourishment. Together, they form the reef’s two main groups of corals. Within these coral groups are thousands of varieties living on the reef with such exotic names as “brain”, “organ pipe”, “fan”, and “staghorn”.

Remember, corals need a dose of bright sunlight for their survival and Australia supplies plenty of that. That’s why they’re usually found in the more shallow parts of the sea.

Now the Sexy Bit

This is where it gets interesting, especially if you’re either a scientist or a coral. They, the corals not the scientists, reproduce sexually as well as asexually. The former when male and female coral polyps cast forth millions of sperms and eggs. Once released, the goods float merrily along the water’s surface to meet up like teenagers at a prom. They fertilize and the fertilized eggs then dodge predators eventually hatching into adorable little larvae that drift aimlessly about with plankton in the ebb and flow. Should all go well, and in all reality it doesn’t for most of the larvae, they begin the next phase of their life attached to a reef to produce a brand new coral colony. In contrast, asexual reproduction happens when polyps or colonies become separated from the parent colony. It’s boring. But this isn’t -- some polyps are both male and female.

Words to the Wise

Divers and visitors exploring the reef must do so without disturbing it. The local authorities are passionate about protecting its fragile surface from boat anchors, fishing nets, souvenir hunters and the like. And, as is always the case where delicate ecosystems are concerned, a good visitor takes only pictures and leaves behind only a very few footprints. Unfortunately, the Crown-of-Thorns Seastar didn’t get the message and has been chomping away on the coral, taking as much as one square yard of coral each day. Little do they know we view the Great Barrier Reef equally eco-y as the endangered rainforest. Having said that, some view them as evil habitat destroyers while others celebrate this type of population control that frees up space for newer reefs. The debate rages on.